December 15, 2006

Christmas is Pointless...

Dig06_600994_webThe story of Nikolai was perhaps the one that has been the most shocking of all that we've told this year. We're pleased to report that he and Lapina are alive and well, supported by our partner Resource Centre for the Elderly. Nikolai has joined a self-help group and the couple are surviving.

Nikolai's picture is one of three used in the Christian Aid appeal 'Christmas is Pointless...' Please do visit the appeal web page - http://www.christian-aid.org.uk/christmas/index.htm - and donate something if you can.

And now, Podcasts
You might also be interested to know about the Christian Aid podcasts which dig deep into these stories.  Presented by Steven Buckley and Amanda Farrant, each new episode looks at a different issue affecting the developing world. Well worth a listen and you can check out a sampler episode here

  • If you use Apple iTunes, click this link to subscribe to the podcasts
  • For all other subscription software, or to listen through your PC, use this link

November 16, 2006

Tajikistan podcast

For all of us who have travelled through Central Asia this year, the stories have stayed with us. We find ourselves retelling our experiences to anyone who'll listen. From a small Church house group just yesterday evening to a podcast with Dutch activist, Bicyclemark.

Bicyclemark interviewed Amanda Farrant, a communications officer at Christian Aid and one of the original Tajikistan Five at the start of the year. Over 30 minutes Amanda paints a compelling picture of the socio-economic and political situation in Tajikistan. One of the best podcasts I've listened to in a while and we thoroughly recommend the episode to Tajikistan Travels readers.

You can access the podcast here on the web - the audio will play through any PC by clicking the listen now link.

http://bicyclemark.org/blog/2006/11/bm166-working-for-change-in-tajikistan/

November 03, 2006

Homeward bound

We thought it would be nice to finish our blog by all writing a line (or two!) summing up our time here. We had a bit of a sinking moment yesterday, after writing up our blog, when the Internet went down (as it frequently does in Tajikistan) just as we sent out blog to go live! If we can retrieve that day's blog we'll add it in the next few days but, for now, as we leave this amazing, heart-warming, poverty-stricken country here are our summarised, tumbling thoughts on the country and the trip...

'Nothing at all like what I was expecting and challenging in very different ways. But also an incredibly welcoming place and I've also had a lot of fun here.' Jema

'A two line summary?! A humbling experience that at times had me in tears and, at others, filled me with hope. An inspiring trip.' Jo

'Fantastic Tajik people. Their great hospitality and warm welcome will stay with me forever.' Joanna

'An upside down place. Really strange to be in a country that had so much and is slowly falling apart. The warmth of the people gave so much hope but also so much heartbreak that their love isn't enough to make things better.'  Ruth

'An amazing country full of amazing people who have inspired me through the two weeks.' Alasdair

'Tears, smiles; sugar, oil; hope, despair; fog, sun; city, mountains; autumn leaves, summer rain; Muslim, Christian: Tajikistan'  Ali

'Beautiful smiles and beautiful people. Beautiful colours and beautiful dresses. Beautiful mountains and beautiful sunsets. A place hidden but never forgotten. A place we've now seen and know. Beautiful.'  Emily

'A fantastic country full of amazing scenery and wonderful people who are so kind and hospitable. The past two weeks have inspired me so much in my faith and for my work with Christian Aid.'  Hannah

'Evocative and provocative, Tajikistan is a country of astounding beauty and arresting decay. Such a wonderful sense of community and overwhelming friendliness. Tajikistan deserves better.'  Jonny

'A real place of contrasts - but so much hope and potential. It has been a privilege to experience the beauty of the country and the warmth and love of its people.'  Charlotte

'Beautiful. The people, the place, the culture. It has been a life-inspiring trip. I will never forget the warmth of this country. it will always shine in my memories!'  Laura

'I've really enjoyed my time here in Tajikistan. It was nothing like I expected and I'm truly grateful for that. The people, the scenery, the food - everything about this place has been an inspiration. A big thank you to the new family members that I acquired on this trip...God bless.' Oby

'It's been amazing. The people we have met have inspired me in so many ways. We have constantly been greeted with love and warmth and I'm really grateful for this. Tajikistan is a beautiful country and I recommend everyone to visit!'  Rachel

'This country is amazing. The people are so welcoming and the scenery is beautiful. I've been so struck by the passion and hope shown by so many people we've met, especially the young people - despite the problems they face. After all the worries I had before this trip, I'm now so glad that I had this wonderful opportunity.'  Lydia

November 01, 2006

Beauty, education and hospitality in Kulyab

Group one's second two night excursion from Dushanbe started bright and early on Monday morning. Somewhat bleary eyed, we left the hotel at about 6.25am (a bit of a random time - we were aiming for 6am but with eight 18-25 year olds trying to get up we no longer expect punctual departures...). This time were headed down to Kulyab - slightly alarmingly close to the Afghan border (a couple of hours) - though we'd be assured it would be safe...

Any efforts to catch up on sleep in the minibus were utterly frustrated (slightly rickety minibus + lots of people + lots of bags + very bumpy, ill-maintained roads = no sleep), however, this was just as well because the scenery was absolutely stunning. We journeyed up and up into the mountains, surrounded on all sides by dusty looking peaks, with glimpses of snow on the distant skyline. As we rounded a bend we were confronted with the beauty of lake Norak. The surface shimmered under the early morning sun, shockingly turquoise - reminiscent of the Mediterranean rather than Central Asia. Faced by such a large expanse of water I was reminded of Tajikistan's landlocked state - suddenly it occurred to me that most Tajiks must never see the sea... As I write this, I  remember a university student of Tajikistan University who in interview expressed his greatest dream is to witness the ocean. Quite a feat when even to travel to Dushanbe from this region is too expensive for many. And I thought Oxford was far from the coast...

Another impressive sight of our journey was the region's massive salt mountains, which we were informed could supply the world with salt for 100 years. This certainly is a country with an abundance of natural resources. However paradoxically, the salt from these mountains lacks iodine - a major problem when deficiency of this important element is causing high incidence of the disease goitre in the region. Therefore, local NGO's encourage people to buy packeted salt, rather than the cheaper mountain salt. A parallel seems to lie in the fact that Tajikistan is rich in water and the possibilities for hydro-electric power stations are numerous - however in so many of the rural villages that we visited, electricity is rationed to just a few hours in winter. The country's potential is enormous, but it needs to be effectively harnessed.

Kulyab_2The true highlight of the day was the people we met and the warmth with which we were received. Ruhafzo, the partner we were visiting, works in four rural villages in the Kulyab region providing educational support and training for young people, as well as organising parents' committees which liaise with local schools. As we arrived at one of the villages in which Ruhafzo is working, we were treated to a traditional Kulyab greeting. We were met by girls who presented us with a tower of bread - on top of which was a small pot of salt (from the mountain). One by one we were invited to break off a piece of bread, dip in in the salt and eat it. We were also treated to flowers and dancing. This hospitality continued throughout the day. When our morning plans overran and we no longer had time to go the office for lunch, a local family invited us into their home. There we had one of the best meals of the trip - treated to not one, but two traditional dishes! We were overwhelmed by the generosity, especially with such little notice. Over dinner conversation turned to Tajik hospitality. The director of Ruhafzo (a man whose face seemed almost entirely comprised of smile lines) explained how the prophet Muhammed (PBUH) taught that Muslims are obliged to welcome visitors. We have certainly reaped the benefits of this during our trips - and have felt humbled by the experience.

October 31, 2006

Two for the price of one!

The last two days for group 2 (Jema, Ali, Emily, Alasdair, Jo, Ruth, Hannah and Lucy) have been amazing - so much so that we're going to have to try and fit both of them into this one blog entry. Yesterday we spent the day with 'Rights and Prosperity', an advocacy NGO that campaigns for the rights of orphans in Tajikistan. They work both to improve the legislation as it's written, and to ensure that what is written is actually put into practice by the relevant bodies.

We spent the afternoon visiting two orphanages a little way outside of Dushanbe, and it was clear from these visits just how important the work R&P does is in ensuring the children we met have the chance to live up to their potential. Emily and I (Ali) chatted with a 13 year old boy who was disabled from the waist downwards. He had lived in the orphanage for the last three years and his eyes lit up with hope and contentment despite what we were initially expecting. Half way through the chat he dragged himself down the corridor to find his sketch books, embroidery and examples of his dressmaking skills...turns out he has many talents and a lot of potential. Things were tainted however by the fact that his future is not so sure. Unless laws are asserted, his opportunities when he reaches 18 may be more limited than he realises. The orphanage was basic, but the obvious commitment and love of the staff really shone through. The future may be unclear, but if the staff of both the orphanages and R&P are anything to go by, there's a lot to be hopeful about.

Editors note: you can read a moving story about a visit to another orphanage earlier this year in 'The Inside Truth' . A personal account of the internat visits can be found in 'Cold, Still, and Empty'

Today we went to see our last Christian Aid partner, RAN, an NGO working with those who are particularly vulnerable to HIV in Tajikistan; mainly injecting drug users and sex workers. As with yesterday, we had the opportunity to meet some of the beneficiaries face to face, and hear some of their incredibly moving stories. The stories are all too complex to do justice to here, but one thing that really struck me (Jema) was the incredible attitude of the staff there. Everyone who goes there is treated completely as an equal human being, no matter what their situation or their past - it was the most non-judgemental place I can imagine, and the atmosphere there really did feel like that of a family. It had got dark by the time Lucy was able to drag us all away, we were so engrossed in the conversation!

On the way home, Alasdair and Ruth filled the rest of us in on their conversation with the director of RAN, who had been talking about the problems the organisation faces from various sectors of society because of its work. For bureaucratic reasons, methadone is unavailable in Tajikistan as a way of helping people get off heroin, which makes any rehabilitation work much harder. Despite this and other problems, we left knowing this was an incredibly special organisation and we were very privileged to have been able to spend time with them.

HIV education at the market

After an early 6am start and a two hour journey behind us, group 1 (Alan, Oby, Joanna, Charlotte, Rachel, Laura, Lydia, Jonny and Nicola) arrived at Ghamkhori, one of Christian Aid's partners, situated in the south of the country.  Ghamkhori has 9 projects in 6 districts in the region.  They run women's centres and go into schools teaching young people about Malaria, drug addiction, HIV and AIDS, water transmitted diseases and reproductive health.

Editors note: You can read more about the journey in 'The Road to Kurgan Teppa'The work of the womens centre in particular is told in 'Thankyou for coming here to hear the story of my heart'.

We arrived at the women's centre in the Vakhsh district to be greeted by a line of teenage boys on either side of the corridor, hands to their hearts in traditional Tajik greeting.  These teenage boys are all street kids who work on the market as porters.  They were in the middle of a lesson being taught by a Ghamkhori teacher.  These lessons cover issues such as reproductive health, HIV, STDs and water and air born diseases.  The boys act as peer educators, gathering other market boys and teaching them what they've learnt at the centre. 

Farrukh Khabibullo, 16, sporting a bright blue baseball cap and a tee-shirt with the HIV ribbon logo, wears his uniform with pride.  Although he receives a few somanis for his work, his motivation shines from within as he speaks.  The ambition we saw in Farrukh is common to all the young people we met who are involved with Ghamkhori.  He said that his friends from the market think it's a noble thing for him to do. 

When asked what was the best thing about coming to the centre, Farrukh's face lit up.

"It's definitely a change of mind because I come from the market.  I didn't know about HIV but now I am aware... I am very happy that I became educated.  I am thankful to this centre."

We asked Farrukh about his future dreams and like so many young Tajiks, his dreams are generous,

"I would like Tajikistan to become better developed and people to be aware of diseases like HIV and AIDS."

October 30, 2006

Neki = Kindness

"Life is short and we have to do something good with it".

These are the words of wisdom from Rumanov Sadiq, the Director of the Neki Centre. Mr Sadiq is dedicated to transforming society's attitudes to disabled children and also to eradicating the stigma attached to disability within the Tajikistan community.

Editors note: You can read more on the work of Neki from the original Tajikistan five in 'Heaven Must be Missing an Angel'. Stories from two of the families Neki serve can be found in 'Diminishing Horizons' and  'At The End of the Road'.

Through home visits and the Neki Centre, food, day care, health care and educational facilities are provided for families with disabled children. The centre also holds seminars which aim to re-educate and train individuals on issues to do with disability.

As we (Nicola, Oby, Jonny,Joanna, Rachel, Charlotte, Lydia & Laura) meet the children transformed by this centre, I am amazed by their energy, especially when I am informed that just two years ago, these children would often be found sitting in a corner silent and emotionless.

I Saed_3am particularly impressed by the progress of two  members of the Mavijud family, Safarmu and Saed. Safarmu (17 years old), shows us the hats and dress that she has made. Her dream is to one day open a factory where she can make dresses. Saed (16 years) shows us a model of a van that he is currently working on. The detail is impeccable, it looks so professionally made. I fall in love with it immediately and would love to take it home( I'm sure that my nephews would love one too!), but it's still a 'work in progress' and has so far taken him a month to construct.

Without the kindness, dedication and altruism of Rumanov Sadiq and numerous volunteers who work at the Neki Centre, these children would not have discovered the talents they harbour, nor would they be able to hold such high aspirations for their futures. This is just one of the projects that Neki hopes to develop. Sadiq wants to acquire more resources (floor space, raw materials for dress making, handicrafts, cooking etc), in order to provide these children with a means of achieving their dreams.

Neki bimonaol joviolon - translation "Kindness will live for ever!"

October 28, 2006

Hmmm...!

Wow, what an interesting day!  I (Emily) am not quite sure where to begin so we'll start with the 5.30am rise and internal flight at 8am north to Khudjand.  Thankfully, despite the age of the tiny aircraft, we arrived safely at our destination, exhausted but relieved at our survival.

Today, Group 2 were designated to visit YGPE (Youth Group for the Protection of the Environment) to learn about their ecological work.  However, after a morning of interviews, I think the real education began.  Following a group debate about the serious sewage problems in Tajikistan, we were whisked off to the Mayor's office in order to be grilled about the work of Christian Aid and encouraged to support the plight of a Tajik arm wrestler soon to compete in Manchester.

Next, our group were escorted to the town hall where a concert ensued.  We later found out it was to celebrate a week-long ecological focus in which films and seminars had been taking place.  Thrown back fifty years, we experienced traditional dancing, cheesy-pop and a large dose of patriotism.

After dancing with the Mayor's band of merry men (some more merry than others), we were ushered to his house in a nearby suburb.  Bizarre!  Beyond the sepia-coloured heavy wall-papered corridor lay a long room, in the centre of which awaited our supper. The supper of doom (the culprit of an interrupted night's sleep for a number of the group!).

It soon became clear during this meal that our agenda was not shared with the Mayor.  However, on the bright side he did laud the work with and of young people on the ecological front and fully supported YGPE in all it does.  As was evident from the morning interviews, the Mayor had good reason to be proud because the passion and enthusiasm of the young people we spoke with really was tangible. 

One boy Ali and I interviewed said that YGPE had 'opened his eyes' to the damage being done to the world and although he was only 13 years of age, had committed himself to educating others about the importance of recycling, saving power and keeping the streets clean.  Hopefully we will be able to evoke the same enthusiasm in young people on our return to the UK.

Finally, after this tiring but somewhat unique day, the group of us piled into the minibus and headed for 'home'. I think it is safe to say that all of us were very much looking forward to being near our beds and a flushing toilet!

October 26, 2006

EID

Today was Eid the day of celebration that marks the end of the month long fast called Ramadam. We were invited with exceptional warmth and hospitality into three local houses with an overwhelming, mouth watering array of cullinary delights. We were informed we must eat at every house at to not cause offence.....we prepared ourselves for a day of veritable feasting! As we entered the rooms we were confronted with large floral patterned rugs surrounded by long cushions where we sat, legs folded and then gave thanks.Thanks consisted of an arabic paryer followed by the raising of hands and the passing of the hands over the face.  At the first house the men and woman went into seperate rooms and the men had a highly pensive conversation about the police in England and Tajikistan. The differences are innumerable!

On the rugs lay halvo which is breadcrumbs,oil and sugar, chagal dak which is Pa240633onion pastry, Bugursock which are dough balls, Orzuk which is cheesy pastry, sambusa which is pie with meat, turtle cake which is gooey chocolate sponge. As well as beef and onion pasties...the onions are so crisp and succulent a reflection of produce being grown so locally.., raisons, nuts, coconut balls, Tajik Rafallo which is cookie.

They also have a type of fruit called persiman which has a vivacious fresh cinnaman taste.

The food is left there for three days and people visit continually. During this time there was a wonderful sense of community and sharing.... embracing neighbours, friends,families and total strangers.

October 25, 2006

NVC - a lifeline

Img_6486 On Monday group two went to spend the day with NVC, an NGO which works with pensioners in Dushanbe. The morning was spent talking to the volunteers at the charity, and then in the afternoon we went to visit two of the elderly ladies NVC is helping in their own homes. The first experience was especially heart-rending; every single one of us was in tears at some point, even our translator. And while the second lady, Claudia, seemed to be in better spirits, it was still clear that no-one should have to live the way she does.

One thing which really struck us was both old ladies' amazing warmth and kindness, directed as it was to a large group of foreigners invading their houses and asking lots of difficult questions. The first old lady, Nina, was very upset that she was unable to offer us tea as she would once have done. Whenever there was a pause in the conversation with Claudia, she filled it by blessing us and wishing us every happiness. They were both so very gracious, and I think we all found it quite humbling to see both dignity and humour in the face of such difficult conditions.

Clearly both suffer from not only poverty, but also the loneliness that seems to be such a frequent feature of old age all over the world. When I asked Nina if she could tell us about a better time in her life, she told us details about her life in Moscow that  she hadn't remembered in a long time. It's nice to think that we were welcome company for them both, but also hard to accept their gratitude at our visit when we knew we were going to walk away in a few minutes and never see them again.

It is abundantly clear that the work NVC does is vitally important to them both. It's very simple - volunteers go in to help cook and look after them, and also provide them with help in making sure they get as much of the meagre state pension as possible - in Nina's case, approximately eight pounds a month. Yet this is what they depend upon to keep them going - as Claudia said: 'to make me happy all I need is some lunch and a sleep'.

October 24, 2006

So many cakes, so little time!

Group 1 spent two days with the Youth Eco-center in Dushanbe.  YEC recognises the potential role of women and young people in decision-making and works to build civil society through environmental education programmes.  The organisation is working to develop a culture of volunteering in Tajikistan and already 1,200 young people participate in their projects which range from debating clubs, summer camps, community based projects and seminar sessions.  We met members of one of the TYDEC debating clubs in Dushanbe and heard a presentation about the clubs from the project’s co-ordinator 19-year-old Ruso.  The clubs were established to give young people the opportunity to develop their critical thinking and conflict resolution skills and encourage their participation in wider decision making processes.  At the end of each debate on issues that relate to government policy a summary document is sent to the Ministry for Youth and any government department it is relevant to.  They also organise debating conferences for groups from all over Tajikistan to which they invite the mass media and observers from government.  We were amazed at the participants' passion, enthusiasm and drive for bringing change to their country, especially compared to the apathy amongst many young people in the UK. 

The people were so welcoming and made us feel really at home – even inviting us to the cinema (we’re going later in the week!). This welcoming attitude, that is in such contrast to the UK, was demonstrated when we went out into the countryside to visit a project that YEC works with.  After a brief meeting with the group leader – a very strong, passionate woman – we were treated to a table full of cakes, sweets and fruit but, painfully, only a few minutes to try them!

October 23, 2006

A Zumrad Adventure

The crisp autumn sunlight that greeted us today on our first morning was reminicent of a cool and sunny September day. From a cocktail of meats, salads and pastries (our first breakfast at Hotel Tajikistan), my sub-group of GAPPERS (headed up by Lucy and including Jema, Jo M, Emily, Alistair, Hannah, Ruth and me (Ali)) set off for the office of Christian Aid's partner organisation Zumrad based in Dushanbe.

Getting out of our minibus, I noticed a rusty crane leering over the Zumrad buildings ominously with its operator leaning out of its open front - a sudden reminder that despite the surprisingly leafy streets of the city, I was far removed from England.

We were greeted warmly and ushered quicly into a dark room thick with flies. I'd glimpsed a medley of Tajik faces as we had come in...humble eyes of blues, greens, black or chocolate hues, gold teeth...shy, excited, gentle, earnest...

As I balanced on a creaking chair in this office room I had my first experience of communication through translation (I'm still not sure who to look at!). With an excited impatience we introduced ourselves and heard from Margarete, co-founder of Zumrad. This organisation offers disadvantaged young people and children training and social opportunities such as sewing or summer activity camps up in the Tajik mountains. Suddenly proceedings were interupted by platefuls of fruit, biscuits and chocolates (already we've realised that displays of hospitality like this are the norm here).

Later on Emily and I chatted to Sayohat, 19, a young woman learning to sew here at the centre. She hopes these new skills will one day lead to a career in fashion design. Somehow I felt simultaneously disappointed and hopeful for her.

The group of us are treated like celebritites (as if!), which makes me feel uncomfortable and humbled.

The highlight of the day for me was the afternoon when we visit a Zumrad club based in the countryside. We emerged from the club buildings into floods of late afternoon orange sun. In the far distance the rocky mountains of Tajikistan looked like the ripples of sand dunes, but in the near distance the land was flat and barren. To the delight of the flocks of Tajik teenagers, I found myself on a zipwire from the upper rooms of the building down to the group. The language barrier seems to have given me an unrealised boldness. I'd been quite literally roped into the mountain rescue skills demonstration the Zumrad young people had been impressing us with!

My yawning exaustion didn't lift after this unexpected adrenaline rush, and I regrettably dozed through our evening of beautiful Tajik music (or maybe I was hypnotised by the Arabian lullabies...?) while some of the others in the group made a brave attempt at traditional Tajik dancing! 

October 22, 2006

We made it!

We made it! The first day and our first blog.  After two safe and food-filled (plus complimentary booze) flights, we finally arrived in Dushanbe airport at 3.30am Friday morning.  That was the easy part...then came the wait!  Amanda warned us that it could take up to two hours to be legally admitted into the country.  However, we almost broke the record with a 3 hour forty-five minute preamble (the record is 4 hours) before eventually passing all necessary checks. The time was filled by watching the one airport official filling out what seemed like hundreds of little bits of paper to allow us to eventually get a visa stamped in our passports (although the visas themselves are very pretty!) and watching to make sure our bags didn't mysteriously disappear off the carousel.
Dawn had already broken by the time we were able to drive to our hotel, so if any of us had been awake enough to appreciate it we had a lovely sunrise to admire as we took our first look at Dushanbe.  The hotel itself is a lot better than some of us were anticipating, including en suites, fridges, tvs and even dressing gowns.  After a breakfast of rice, sausage and breads we all collapsed into bed for a few hours, before visiting the ACT Central Asia office to meet our guides Jannat and Zarina.  Both made us feel very welcome, in their virtually perfect English, and gave us an exciting preview of what's coming up for us in the next two weeks.

So to all our loved ones, we are here safe and well, and evidently in very good hands.  Watch this space.....

We're here!

We arrived in Dushanbe airport at 3.30 in the morning.

After a few hours waiting for visas in a concrete room that bore a striking resemblance to a cell but with officials who were very friendly and easy-going (and who wore winkle-pickers), we finally stepped onto Tajik soil - or rather, pot-holed concrete.

So, this entry is really just to say 'We're here' and to ask you to check the blog later tonight when we should have our first proper entry about arriving here and first impressions.

We look forward to sharing this experience with you over the next couple of weeks.

September 22, 2006

OneWebDay

Today is OneWebDay - a celebration of the Internet's ability to foster communication, collaboration and participation. The web has made a huge difference for Charities such as Christian Aid. We came to the web early with just one member of staff managing a few pages on the net. Today we have a whole department given over to maintaining five different sites, each receiving thousands of visitors a day.

As well as educating the public about the scandal of poverty, the web is a vital fundraising tool for us at Christian Aid. Present Aid, our on-line gift catalogue has raised the best part of £1,000,000 in the last 12 months.

But of course, the web is so much more than just web sites. It's helped my team to deliver new initiatives in collaboration and information sharing than would previously have been possible. We have enterprise software systems which are delivered to users around the world via the web - meaning that we no longer have to deploy and maintain software on staff machines.

One of our biggest successes has been the use of Microsoft SharePoint to create a document management and collaboration tool that is accessible by over 500 staff in 32 offices. For the first time ever, Christian Aid staff have access to the same information whether they are in an office, on a plane, or in the desert. We think that's pretty neat - you can read more about SharePoint at Christian Aid here and on the Microsoft People Ready site.

Big projects aside, we've also seen the power of the web in smaller initiatives. At the beginning of the year, we tentatively tried blogging from a staff trip to Tajikistan. The response was amazing and over 12,000 people visited the site. We started podcasts for the first time back in May and have been bowled over by how successful they've been. We're now looking at how we mainstream these activities and integrate them with our websites.

For the year ahead, we're going to be stretching SharePoint and other systems further as we use web technologies to help the organisation decentralise and put management decisions closer to the countries we serve. We'll also be looking at how we share information even more effectively with wikki's, folksonomy's and other social tools. Exciting stuff.

This blog restarts in October when our GAP year students travel back to Tajikistan. In the meantime, check out our other blogs listed in the sidebar, or visit any of the following Christian Aid sites.

Steven Buckley
Head of Common Knowledge Programme
Christian Aid, London

September 19, 2006

Tenacity of the spirit

Matthew Reed - Kyrgyzstan

The driver comes at 1am so I can catch the cheap flight to the UK via Istanbul.

Inevitably on the journey home I reflect on the past very full 10 days.

In addition to the meetings with beneficiaries (some of which I have described in this blog) I have had meetings with colleagues and staff teams of our partners. I have taken hundreds of images (some of which will appear here soon) and there has been the inevitable, although most agreeable, long distances to travel. I have also endeavoured to sustain normal service with colleagues in Britain and Ireland by email in the evening. And I’ve produced this blog!

I have only been away just over a week; it feels more like a month.

When this trip was first suggested our Asia and Middle East team were keen for us to find ways of further highlighting the poverty issues and needs in Central Asia. I hope we have started on that and will look at it further. Indeed I used examples from Kyrgyzstan in sermons at St Paul’s Cathedral and Westminster Abbey in Christian Aid Week last May. We have already started thinking about the youth trip to Zumrad.

Whenever I travel to less developed economies I am as shocked by the affluence when I get back as I am by the poverty when I am away. The financial and corresponding inequality of life security is astonishing. And yet it is more complicated than that. I do not return in one dimensional gratitude for the address I accidentally call home, for this past few days I seen much that in the UK we should learn from. I have seen resilient community, and people with time for each other. I have seen spirituality authentically ingrained in every day reality rather than marginalised to midnight mass. I have connected with the robustness, beauty and risk of the human spirit living close to the edge and feeling all the more alive for it.

I have learnt much about myself over the last 10 days. Part of my soul now resides in Central Asia, just as assorted elements have of it have long since settled in other countries where I have engaged with fellow humans in our essence.

This evening I am back in my home town of Marlow. It is so good to see my wife and children again. I hug them tight.

This is not the end though. The trip wasn't designed for my benefit; I now need to make it work for those I visited. I live this life because at my deepest level of my being I reject the ugliness and outrage of injustice, and I restlessly search for truth and the beauty of the human spirit. Tenacity to grasp tight to love and human beauty despite of, and in the face of, the rawness and injustice of human anguish. This for me is what life before and life after death is all about.

There is so much still to do; I’ll be back at my desk tomorrow morning.

September 18, 2006

Partners in life

Matthew Reed - Kyrgyzstan

Flights out of Tajikistan over the mountains are subject to cancellation when the weather is poor. Now not needing the contingency day built into my programme to deal with this eventuality I have another full day in Bishkek. I put it to use visiting Development and Co-operation in Central Asia (DCCA), a partner of Christian Aid based in Bishkek. I have a valuable conversation discussing and reflecting on some the models of development  I have observed over the last week, social and political issues in Kyrgyzstan, and geopolitical issues facing the region.

Christian Aid does not work operationally on its own. We always choose to work through partners, that is other organisations. Naturally the partners range in their size, and the depth and breadth of their geographical and programme focus.

This approach to development, and emergencies, of working through partners has many benefits; we do not replicate local infrastructure, we do not incur the high cost of flying materials from the UK and we minimise duplication by joint funding with other agencies. Primarily though our partners are selected for their inherent discernment and expertise into the broad and detailed situation in each country we work in. There is a corresponding truth in this approach, that we assume and trust that people locally will have determined insights as to what is best required in their nation and communities.

This is not a blind trust, as robust conversations about priorities and approaches is part of the partner relationship, and there is a natural turn over of partners as priorities and needs change and partners no longer require our support. In 61 years of working with the world’s poorest communities this has become though a honed model that works; it continually reflects our experience that with our input, support, experience, and advocacy support local people form excellent solutions to the challenges they face.

As our supporters and donors would expect, this approach of working through partners is driven by maximising our impact on poverty and marginalisation in the most cost effective and efficient way possible.

It does though also convey theological truths, some of which I have already alluded to.

In the Christian tradition, the image of God presented is of that of coming out to meet us and be with us in the reality, ambiguity and messiness of our lives; in our beauty, profundity and potential, and our superficiality, vanity and stupidity.

Working through partners is such a going out; it has been good to affirm that on this trip.

In all three religions that look to Abraham as the ‘father of faith’ there is the consciousness that interpersonal relationships and the connection between humanity and the divine are defined and refined on trust in the other and mutual interdependence. Something of the truth of this is reflected I think in our partnership approach.

September 17, 2006

Homeward bound

Matthew Reed - Kyrgyzstan

Today I fly back to Bishkek at the start of my journey home. Last night I had dinner with colleagues in Dushanbe thanking them for their friendship and their care and diligence in facilitating and supporting my trip. They warmly encourage me to come back on holiday with my family.

For the second time in a week I have the misfortune of a taxi driver with short term memory loss. Having vigorously assured me at the airport he knew exactly where my guest house was, he lost all knowledge of it once clear of the airport. He kindly offered his friend's guest house instead. We eventually make it to my guest house; I've remembered the way.

Today is my wife Jennifer’s birthday. After some grappling with the Russian version of Skype I get through to her; its great to hear her voice and speak to my children. Home feels a long way away.

September 16, 2006

The Soviet Block

Matthew Reed - Tajikistan

Such is the plight of many older people in Tajikistan that their very being is eroded by malnutrition, poor health care, and absent families who endure the often maltreated life of migrant workers in Russia. In desperation some older people sign over their modest apartments in an arrangement where they remain in residence until they die, cared for by the new owner. For several people in the neighbourhood though the new ‘carers’ have heralded suspiciously early deaths. The existence of this barbarism means many elderly people live in fear of their lives, so the daily food and home care offered by Christian Aid is invaluable.

Part of the shock of poverty in Tajikistan is that it didn’t used to be like this. Many of the people struggling to survive have not been used to this existence. Anastasia Bougrova for example was before retirement a doctor, a consultant; she now like all others of her age does not know where the next meal will come from. Nurse Nazarava does today; she puts the food left over from her neighbour’s plate in a jar to have later.

I am taken to see several people in their soviet apartment blocks, identical to buildings throughout the old USSR. Panes of glass are randomly distributed amongst the window frames, dogs guard their hoards of rubbish, rotting concrete hangs from lintels and mail boxes that have been idle for years swing in the breeze. I go to meet Yuri Barrotov, aged 76, who lost his sight in a mining accident. In the past he would have received a satisfactory pension and state care; now he sits in the dark with a few of his old tools as companions. In the corner of the room a sack of EU food aid questions who will cook it. As I listen to his story and somewhat uncomfortably take some photographs, Yuri’s dinner is prepared by a volunteer from our partner, the National Volunteer Council.

Despite the despondent circumstances endured by many of the people I have met today, there has remained a tenacious and profound sense of human dignity. There is an ubiquitous and understandable yearning in these older people for the safety and predictability of the Soviet era.

These older people do not feature highly in plans for the brave new order, with its decisions based on potential financial return.

Once again the work we support here rejects human disposability. It makes life desirable and treats each beneficiary as a unique person; in so doing it reflects in some humble way without fanfare the great commandment.

But what of the degradation, poverty and suffering there to start with? Where is the Holy, the Divine, God in the mess of all this?

One response could simply be to recite the mantra of the stable, an exile in Egypt, living under occupation, and an untimely death as God comprehending and partaking in the human torment. In the face of those I meet with today this approach sounds rehearsed and feels glib and inappropriate, even insulting; it is not a line of inquiry I would begin to want to pursue.

An alternative could be to refrain from words altogether and submit to a humble and sustained silence. This could have it attractions, for it witnesses to the inexplicable. But it is also unsatisfactory, for it hints at authenticating or colluding with the ugly unacceptable face of human suffering.

Neither glibness nor silence is good enough.

Personally, despite at times a perceived pressure from others, I am resigned to stay with the question and act. This is not laziness, because I have relentlessly wrestled with it for decades. It is just how it is.

It is in the question though that I return to the love of God personified in the person of Jesus, uniquely attuned in its encounter with humanity.

Or to cut the crap, witnessing people care for each other in the profound manner I have witnessed today.

The new generation

Matthew Reed - Tajikistan

The first images I am presented with this afternoon are of young people trekking in the Tajik mountains. Some of my most formative days as child were spent walking in mountains my attention is immediately captured.

Magareta Boutoiva, director of Zumrad, talks me through her work. This is a scheme we support working with orphans and abandoned children who either reside in the notorious Internats or chance it on the streets. The sewing, IT and language skills young people learn at Zumrad are deployed in making mountain trekking kit including rucksacks, sleeping bags, tents and clothes. They then go for weeks at a time into the mountains for ecological and self sufficiency instruction. The group of young people are gathered to meet are animated in their enthusiasm for the scheme, and describe have how through it they have grown in self confidence. Some of these teenagers will hope to use the sewing, trekking and language skills they have learnt for future employment; the perpetual benefits though are reinstalled faith in themselves and others. They invite me to return to Tajikistan and trek with them, an invitation I would love to accept.

In Britain and Ireland we are having a renewed effort to energise younger people to know more about poverty and injustice and be part of generating solutions. In a few weeks time our 15 new Gap year volunteers will be here in Tajikistan and will see the work for themselves. A conversation emerges of bringing some teenagers from Britain and Ireland to share in a summer trek through the Tajik hills with these young Tajiks. I intuitively warm to the idea and we agree to work on it further.

Solidarity

Matthew Reed - Tajikistan

In my meetings with people throughout these lands I have tried to convey something of Christian Aid in Britain and Ireland, how we receive a lot of our income and support from the public, with 300,000 volunteers involved in Christian Aid Week. I do my best to describe this through my interpreter in a way that does not create obliged deference. Rather I want to convey the sense of solidarity between many people in Britain and Ireland and people living in more challenging situations. My point is increasingly hitting the mark with groups I meet. Christian Aid raised about 90M pounds last year from a large number of donors; we wouldn’t be the same organisation if this had emerged from a small handful of donors. Christian Aid is about many standing in solidarity with the poor and the marginalised throughout the world.

Today I can add to my description by conveying news of the 3000 Christian Aid supporters who made their way to Whitehall this week to demand better policies from the British government to support development. The group of elderly people I am meeting with stand and applaud our supporters. I promise to take their greetings back home.

Brothers in Arms

Matthew Reed - Tajikistan

Senior Lieutenant Comrade Moldavsky Mihail Petrovick has spent all his life with a fervour for justice. Despite now being 84 he is a passionate campaigner and advocate for pensioners in his part of Dushanbe to ensure everyone gets their allowance. Life for old people in Tajikistan is desolate. The pension, a meagre $10 per month, is no where near enough to survive. Supported by Christian Aid’s partner, the National Volunteer Council, Comrade Moldavsky makes representations to officials on behalf of people much younger than he is, and has established a formidable success rate.

In the war years Moldavsky survived the siege of Leningrad and unlike 30 million other soviets survived the whole war. He proudly produces a copy of a letter, addressed to him personally and signed by Stalin, thanking him for his services in the liberation of Berlin.

My grandfather was not so lucky. He didn’t make it to Berlin. He was shot in France in 1944.

Now over 60 years later Comrade Moldavsky and I are engaged together in the common pursuit of justice. He was my grandfather’s brother in arms against fascism; now we are brothers in arms against poverty. I tell him my family story. We embrace and my eyes fill.

Not to be outdone on the medals Stipanova Mirzoeva produces her jacket adorned with decorations from the soviet era. In her younger days she was Head of the Physical, Cultural and Sports Committee of Tajikistan, a reasonably senior rank in the Soviet system. She is still remarkably fit at 89. ‘I still go running,’ she assures me and I can quite believe it. I am tempted to sign her up for the London marathon.

She also has spent a lifetime working for the greater good and has no intention of retiring from that now. Indeed every day she runs a drop in centre where free lunches are available for the poorest pensioners in the district. She is supported in this by Christian Aid.

September 15, 2006

The Crescent and the Sickle

Matthew Reed - Tajikistan

One of my aims on this trip is to understand more of the religious context of our programmes. In Soviet times religion was of course repressed, the ‘Opium of the People’, although in reality the long-established Islam had been sufficiently far from Moscow to survive. In ‘Brideshead revisited’ Evelyn Waugh refers to the return to religion as needing ‘but a twitch upon the thread.’ What, I wondered, was the return to in central Asia, and who was pulling the thread?

In Kyrgyzstan it was apparent that the little new building work taking place in rural areas was of mosques. Less physically apparent, but also growing, were active members of Christian churches. At their core Christianity and Islam are faiths of peace and justice. Regrettably however that is not how either belief has always been experienced. I was keen to hear from people as I travelled how the increase in religious expression is changing society.

The clear response in Kyrgyzstan was that the one of the rudiments of the Soviet system to survive to the new order is the embedded conviction that humanitarian approaches to being human must transcend divisive religious practice. Music to my ears.

Today in Tajikistan our partner Mehrangez have arranged for an assembly of village Mullahs to meet with this peripatetic English theologian. It is profound visit. We sit and share bread together and drink tea and exchange our hopes for humanity as people of faith. I quiz them about Islam in Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Iran and Saudi Arabia. They ask me about Islam in the UK and terrorism, and tease me about the world cup defeat. Barno, aware of the complexities of what we are discussing, works extra hard to get the nuances of our discourse right; I have to assume by the warm embraces that follow that she has done well. Not unsurprisingly when our humanity is laid bare in each other’s company there is listening, praying, hoping and great deal of laughter. They recite, believe and practice the Soviet mantra of humanity first, religious practice second. We have a meeting of minds and souls.

I still search for who or what is twitching the thread of the Islamic revival in Tajikistan. I leave hearing that for these people it comes from within, their response to being human, of living in profound communities that part of me covets, and a humble consent to walk the way of God.

I hear how for the benefit of the whole community they have integrated the Mahallah Committee with the self group we support in the village. The consequence is a number of new suggestions coming from the village of projects they can do to make their economic development sustainable. I sense the inevitable grant request looming. I cannot assist now but it helps to be reminded that our capacity at Christian Aid to bring transformation to communities is hindered only by our limited resources, and not by our aspiration.

We left each other as children of Abraham putting our humanity first and rejoicing in each other’s expression what it meant to travel life in search of the Holy, the divine, and the reality of life bigger than ourselves.

September 14, 2006

Afghan winds

Matthew Reed - Tajikistan

I am now the proud owner of a full Tajik ceremonial outfit, a kind gift of the community I visit today in Shartuz provence in the south of Tajikistan. Mehrangez, a Christian Aid supported project, is working in this village of Ok-Oltyn where temperatures reach nearly 50 degrees in the summer. It is not that today, but I can imagine the full length deep blue robe comes into its own in the sub zero winters here. I am quite warm enough as I am paraded for the village in my new attire. I wonder how I will get it home as I don’t have a great deal of space in my pack. I may have to wear it; let’s see what UK immigration makes of that.

‘You are Tajik now’, proclaims one of the older men as I put the traditional hat on. Through my interpreter I make some half baked joke about needing a hat as I don’t have much hair. I haven’t seen a bald Tajik man yet; a nervous giggle shimmers around the gathered women complemented by an empathetic nod from the men.

I am being accompanied on the field visits by my interpreter, Barno, and my Dushanbe based colleague Zarina (who naturally alternates between Tajik, Russian and English). One of my own frustrations on the trip is only speaking one of those languages (English for the record) but my efforts at humour have found common human ground everywhere I have gone.

Once I have de-robed it is down to the now familiar business of drinking green tea and listening to the community and the challenges it is experiencing.

This part of Tajikistan is near the Afghan border and again the first point they mention is the changing climate. For the last few years the summer temperature has increased significantly and has been accompanied by a roasting wind from Afghanistan. The heat is reducing crop yields, mitigated in part by costly fertiliser. Lower winter temperatures put insatiable pressure on the power supply with the corresponding plunder of the few remaining forests. Not only is climate change here impacting on the economy of human survival, but easing of its effects is making the problem worse.

Proportionally these villages burning more wood will not be the forebear of a ruined climate, but the millions of additional heaters and air conditioning units in the rest of the world may well be. Climate change is not tomorrow’s problem; it is today’s harsh reality for many people rummaging for survival. I leave reconvicted that tackling it must start with our own life style decisions. I feel like taking a penitential walk home.

The good news is that our partners on the ground here, Eco Youth Centre, are on the case and demonstrate a prototype solar heater in the village of Malcham. I often aspire for NGOs and business to combine their proficiencies more effectively, so I am delighted to hear that a commercial partner has been found to get the heater to market.

September 13, 2006

Come fly with me

Matthew Reed - Tajikistan

Today we are leaving Kyrgyzstan and travelling to Tajikistan. Although this other ex Soviet republic shares a border with Kyrgyzstan we need to fly given the enormous distances and a 5000 m mountain range. We fly with Tajikistan Airlines, with the whole routine being much as described by my colleagues visit last winter. You can read their account here.

The last time I flew in an un-pressurised prop of this size I disembarked at 10,000 feet (voluntarily) with a parachute, and trust that will not be required today. The in-flight entertainment alternates between gasping at the majesty of the surprisingly close snow capped mountains whilst having some success at managing down the expectations of a very large Tajik doctor about how much of his Johnny Walker ‘flying medicine’ I am going to consume. I enjoy the whole experience, including what felt like a nose dive when we reached our destination.

The only similarities between these central Asian states is that they end with ‘stan’, were once part of the USSR, and are now struggling economically to find their way as independent nations. In all other ways they are their own lands, as varied in culture and geography as Germany and France. Tajikistan was the most ethnically contrived of Stalin’s Soviet republics leaving it inherently unstable when the shock of independence came calling in the 1990s. The subsequent civil war has however delayed adaptation to the new international order contributing to Tajikistan being one the poorest countries in the world.

Having flirted with the abyss and witnessed the destruction in neighbouring Afghanistan, Tajikistan is now peaceful and determined not to descend to violence again. The legacy of the war in the 1990s is still being realised, with a generation of children missing schooling whilst living in Afghan refugee camps and many economically active people having emigrated.

The capital has now lost its callous ‘Starlinabad’ title reverting to the name of the earlier village on the site, Dushanbe. This suits it far better, for it is handsome and cordial city with dignity and presence. It is here that we have our Christian Aid Central Asia office and I have come to see both the Christian Aid staff who are based here and our Tajik programmes.

Over the past few months Christian Aid has relocated posts from London to our offices throughout the world. This is quite a change for us, employing less British staff and more staff based in the regions where we work. This is accompanied with appropriately moving management responsibility for programmes out of the UK as well. Most of our staff team in Central Asia are Tajik nationals and I am delighted to get to meet them and share news and best wishes from colleagues in London. I am made to feel extraordinarily welcome.

September 12, 2006

Liberation or captivity?

Matthew Reed -  Kyrgyzstan

What is clear to me so far on this trip is that the post Soviet era is not experienced here as uncomplicated liberation. There was jubilation in the early days of course and excitement of a nation coming of age. Now the party is over harsher realities reside. The creation of this nation state was not sought or struggled for; for many it was rather imposed by the world’s confidence in its new order. There has been no great rush to tear down the signs of the USSR here; giant heroic Soviet figures still adorn plinths and concrete celebrations of unremembered victories remain unbothered. Instead people reminisce for the time when schools were free, doctors available, and things worked. Then, they tell me they had freedom; freedom not to be hungry, freedom to have a job.

Of course the Soviet past in Central Asia has been more complicated than that, with many who did not find it so freeing unable to witness to their stories from the grave. But I do wonder what freedoms we are ushering these states into. Is it the freedom to have a mortgage, with the hope that by the time it is paid back you still have enough mental facilities to remember why you started it? Is it the freedom to have so much choice that whole industries are created in the west to help consumers make decisions? Is it the freedom to participate in economic growth which clearly does not necessarily lead to better relationships and a happier and more fulfilled life, often rather undermining these things?

There are signs though that point to hope for these people, not least their robust confidence. But what is this new found ‘freedom’ all about? For sure there is the freedom now to choose a house other than official design A, B or C (not that many people have). Yes there is freedom of international travel, yet only other ex Soviet states offer any welcome.

In the period of ‘great collective enterprise’ land was state owned. In the early days of the new era land was privatised with each farmer being allocated a piece of irrigated land, some pasture land, and some dry barren land (the vast majority of this country). This has its own logic of equality, but resulted in each farmer having small pieces of land no where near each other. Sustainable agriculture in these circumstances was more than challenging.

Now farmers are collectively working the land for the greater good. Not so far from the ‘great collective enterprise’ these people are supposed to have been liberated from.

What persists in this land is a real sense of human endeavour that goes well beyond the nation state. Indeed I wonder if one of the main challenges faced by the government here is a lack of enthusiasm for a state not asked for and currently unable to offer what the USSR did before. These people have lived for generations understanding that the world is bigger than their national perspective. I hope that can continue.

The pressures on the region are clear to see. Russia has opened an airforce base outside Bishkek whilst at the international airport USAF planes appear un-embarrassed as they interpose with a competing idea. Trade once gave this region high influence in the world; others now have an appetite for that influence here again. I hope that the development and social needs of the people of Kyrgyzstan will not be expendable in other nation's haste for power.

Energy for change

Matthew Reed -  Kyrgyzstan

Today we are in Balykchy at the west end of the Lake Issy-kul. Besieged by the desert that encircles it, the town is for the time being just holding out. I like it. It has a frontier sense of the unexpected so absent in sterile market towns in the south of England. I am aware though that this response is a luxury as I have a ticket out. Balykchy is now home to the young, the old, women, and anyone else who cannot get work in Russia. Tenaciously supporting the community as it grapples with its plight, ‘Resource Centre for Elderly’ is a Christian Aid sponsored project supporting the elderly here to survive. They in turn care for their dependent grandchildren.

A visit to a self help group is accompanied by the usual hospitality and stories that are off the radar of my own experience. Nena, aged 84, has spent her entire life working for the greater good. Now long retired and widowed she has found herself in the extraordinary situation of being homeless. Her apartment was sold by her children who now reside in Russia. The self help group rallied round, as they have for numerous others, and provided her not just with shelter but confidence again in the human race. Now she helps others, part of a profound network that again I am humbled we are partners and funders of.

One of the issues facing people locally is energy supply. The Soviet houses had heating provided ‘centrally’ and piped from the district heating facility. This worked well, until the state failed that is. The electricity supply couldn’t cope with the subsequent rush to electric heating so to survive the bitter winters people resorted to cutting down trees for firewood. There were not many trees here to start with; now there are significantly fewer. ‘Resource Centre for Elderly’ has a holistic approach to its work with old people and now sees sustainable energy supply as a key issue. They demonstrate to me three experimental renewable sources of energy. The first is a solar stove heated by a small concave reflector. Its effectiveness is amply demonstrated when a piece of paper placed on the stove ignites within seconds!

We think climate change and energy supply is becoming one of the biggest issues for us to be working on in our duty of tackling poverty and social exclusion. Here in Kyrgyzstan is a superb example of what can be done at very low cost. A commercial producer of these stoves is now being sought. I am delighted again that we are part of this, building communities now and developing sustained ways of living on this planet for the future.

September 11, 2006

The bomb

Matthew Reed -  Kyrgyzstan

Before I came here colleagues described factories silenced in the ‘disintegration’ that was drowned out by western euphoria when the Berlin wall fell. As Russian investment fled so did the jobs and livelihoods of many people in central Asia. After lunch we go to such a site, once a thriving silicon mine but now abandoned, not through lack of minerals to be mined, but through its investment being withdrawn. Natasha, probably well into her 80s, sat panning for silicon crumbs in the rubble, and remarkably finding enough to deny hunger another victory at least for today. Down the hill the plug of loose soil placed in the mine entrance in the 1990s is now being precariously tunnelled by hungry people in search of something. The site’s activity and results is desperate.

It then materialises that not only Silicon was mined here at Kadji-Sai but Uranium as well. ‘This,’ claims my interpreter with understandable national sentiment, ‘was where the material for the first Soviet bomb was mined.’

What should I make of this? On the one hand, this place that once had employed and fed many is now a wasteland, home only to scavengers almost robbed by poverty even of their human dignity. One the other hand, this position framed beneath the glorious snow capped peaks of the Tian Shan mountains and surrounded by people with extraordinary hospitality, could have been the midwife of the bombs we were told to be scared of as children growing up in the south east of England during the cold war. And to complete the irony for me, a priest working for Christian Aid, neat rows of graves in the Russian cemetery are identified not with the signs of the glorious Soviet, but by the cross of the Christ I too proclaim.

When the ground moves …

Matthew Reed -  Kyrgyzstan

Later in the morning I am heading for Kyzyl-too school where young people not that much older than my own children are being trained by Shoola in emergency response. This area of the world is renowned for its seismic activity and the young people quickly adorn their yellow bibs (complete with EU branding to reflect their patronage). I am being accompanied in Kyrgyzstan by Umida, my colleague from our Dushanbe office in Tajikistan. Umida is our regional specialist in disasters and emergencies and decides that there is no time like the present for an earthquake rehearsal. We are ushered into room with people suffering imaginary bad injuries. I am tremendously impressed with the dignified maturity with which the young people both demonstrate their emergency and first aid skills, and reflect on the inevitability of having to use them.

Only the ground knows its timings so I leave wondering when we will be raising money to respond to an emergency in the region. Inevitably it will be anonymous to most people, but it will now be deeply personal to me.

Salt and faith

Matthew Reed -  Kyrgyzstan

The first self help group I meet is in the village of Shorbulak which means ‘Salty Water’. Fresh water supply in the village is unsurprisingly challenging. The self help group, formed, cajoled, trained, supported and loved into being by Shoola, is enabling women to discover craft and business skills. To their own surprise the products they produce are selling well. The margin was impressive. Raw materials (wool mainly) cost 120 som; the rugs sell for 650 som after 3 days work. The scheme has clear financial benefits but also increase the women’s self confidence and have established mutual dependence and care. I thought I saw a wink on the austere statue of Lenin looking down from the hill above. But the best was the most unexpected.

A scheme to bring fresh water to the village had been talked about for some time. The proposal has remained a mirage though as the village has struggled to find the necessary 50% investment needed to match the World Bank's. Until now that is, and the profits from the rug selling. Over the coming months the dream will become a reality.

What started with a small amount of money from Christian Aid supporters has ended in a village with a sustainable income, renewed confidence in itself, stronger social infrastructure, and soon a robust supply of fresh, clean water.

This is why I support and work for Christian Aid. This is faith made real. This is the kingdom being built. This is lives transformed. And until they met me today, none of these people had even heard of Christian Aid. This is love giving just for the sake of it. This is what I understand the love that is God to be. And despite all the complexities and at times rubbish of organised religion, this is why I still dare to call myself a Christian.

September 10, 2006

Mountains and expectations

Matthew Reed -  Kyrgyzstan

Despite the terrain in all directions being as dry and barren as anything I have seen before, turquoise water plunges through a ravine by the main road east of Bishkek. A few tourists are manoeuvring themselves into inflatables to raft the torrent fed by the winter snows still melting on the highest peaks.

This is now my second day in Kyrgyzstan and I am heading away from the capital Bishkek on a 4 hour drive to Lake Issy-kul. The journey on soviet era roads still in good repair is my first introduction to the extravagant beauty of this country whose name is suffixed by ‘Where?’ to most people I have talked to about this trip to Central Asia.

Sandwiched between China, Tajikistan and its large northern neighbour Kazakhstan this ancient silk route land is about half the size of France and home to 5 million of the world’s most hospitable people. The terrain is reminiscent of Ladakh in the far north of India and sufficiently like Afghanistan for a film crew to be making an epic here about one of the numerous wars in that land that few heed the lessons of. 93% of Kyrgyzstan is mountainous and infertile.

My trip to Ladakh 14 years ago was not without its complications. I was trecking with my brother, sister and parents at altitude when my mother become quite ill. It was a strenuous half jog out of the mountains into Leh and a subsequent urgent conversation that persuaded the regional Indian Airforce commander to dispatch a helicopter to rescue her. (She was fine after a few days in hospital, although undeterred from adventure, she required casevac again a few years later following a mountain fall in Indonesia.)

I wonder what events will populate this journey in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan!

Issy-kul is more of a sea than a lake, with a coast line of 600km and a far bank beyond the horizon. It has no outlets, despite the numerous rivers of melting ice and snow that flow into it, its volume being restrained only by evaporation. This is place where the Soviet navy once tested its torpedoes and where now Christian Aid funds ‘Shoola’, an NGO supporting the people living in challenging circumstances on the lake’s southern shore.

The staff at Shoola have gathered a number of people benefiting from their programmes to meet with me. I spend a lot of time in the UK reassuring people that their donations are making a real impact on the lives of poor people; this trip offers a good opportunity to reassure myself that this is true, and hopefully to share some common humanity and interaction with people known to most of the world only as a statistic.

I’m not disappointed. My experience of working for an NGO is to be constantly humbled by the quality of the local NGOs we are privileged to fund and support, and the tenacious grasp of life that recipients of those programmes exhibit.

September 09, 2006

September travels ...

Matthew Reed -  Kyrgyzstan

My name is Matthew Reed and I am Church and Community Director at Christian Aid. Currently I am in Central Asia visiting projects and meeting with colleagues.

This blog will be some of my personal reflections as I travel. This does not represent Christian Aid's official positions, or my own final thoughts on my visit, but I hope you find it of interest.

August 23, 2006

Starting soon

Tajikistan Travels starts up again soon with two trips planned for September and late October. The entries promise another set of perspectives and stories - so be sure to tune in.

June 23, 2006

Blogging On

A big welcome to Christian Aid News readers who've found this blog from the 'Blogging On' article on page 27. This is the very first of the Christian Aid blogs and it relates to a trip to Tajikistan at the beginning of the year by five staff from the London office. Scroll down through the page for daily stories from the two week trip - though please remember that the opinions expressed in any of the blogs and podcasts on this site may not represent official Christian Aid policy.

For readers unfamiliar with weblogs, do check out this article on blogging from the BBC Webwise site. The basic structure of Christian Aid weblogs is a long series of entries in the centre of the page. Links in text work in the same way as any web page and will take you to another article or image. 

You can leave a comment on any of the stories by clicking the 'comments' text under each article. To the right of the page, you'll also see an image gallery link and links to other Christian Aid weblogs and podcasts. Clicking the Tajikistan image gallery link takes you to the photo album for the blog - though bear in mind that we haven't always got time to compress images, so they can take a while to open if you aren't using broadband (ditto the video files - please don't click them unless you are using broadband).

So do have a look around and please let us know what you think! Feel free to comment on any of the stories and let us know what you think about our weblog initiative - we'd love to hear from you.

March 15, 2006

Video

Well we finally got around to pulling all the video together from our trip.  Now the edit is done, we can kind of forgive Amanda for making us stop every 5 seconds to film something.  Note that the footage here is really for briefing Christian Aid staff and not for external use... so please don't go using the video on your own site or reusing the footage in any way.

January 30, 2006

All who are thirsty?

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Earlier in the trip, Steven and Catherine took an unplanned journey to the south of the country.  This is the story of what they found...

Catherine:
‘It’s with some trepidation that I start the day’s journey to Bishkent. This is something to do with the fact it’s a long and quite mountainous drive, but, if I’m to be completely honest, I’m slightly worried by the fact it borders Afghanistan and Uzbekistan – not two of the safest countries in the world.

Bishkent was badly affected by the civil war and today a mixture of people from across central Asia live in the area. People have also been moved there by the government and there are strong claims that the Government has reneged on promises of housing, potable water, land grants, and other social services (see this US report, section 1f).

Ghamkhori’s director tells us that this has led to tensions in the region but thankfully there hasn’t been any open fighting.

We drive past numerous cotton fields. It’s a cold day but people are outside working the land. There are rusting buildings scattered across the landscape – a reminder of Soviet times when people worked in factories for a regular wage.

The drive up into the mountains is beautiful. The road we’re on was once one of the most important roads in central Asia, linking Tajikistan with Uzbekistan and Afghanistan. Now it’s fallen into disrepair and has become yet another ghostly reminder of the Soviet ‘glory days’.

The only modern interruption to our journey is the traffic police and their speed guns. Yes, we are on the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan, on an old potholed road that’s carrying more donkeys than cars… but the traffic cops are waiting to fine any driver who goes over the speed limit.

When we arrive in Bishkent we are taken to a village Mahalla committee meeting.  We walk into a cold, dark room where around 30 people are sat on cushions listening to today’s lesson on poverty.  They applaud Steven simply for announcing that we’re from the UK.

Ghamkori provides a ‘facilitator’ [a tutor] to come to the committee meetings and teach the committee members on various topics such as;

  • how to avoid fights in the family – there are often more than two families living under one roof in Bishkent so relations can become rather frayed
  • how to pay less for a wedding – nuptials are important and expensive events and many people end up poorer because they’ve paid for one.
  • healthcare – doctors are expensive and the villagers are told how to treat some conditions like diarrhoea themselves. 

These may seem like basic lessons to take, but as one of the members of the committee comments: ‘If you don’t know how to do anything, you don’t start to do anything. Ghamkori has taught us how to do things.’

Alongside a lack of electricity, no healthcare and a lack of investment, the main problem for this village is access to water.   Women and children have to walk two kilometres to the nearest spring.

The women explain that this is hard work and time consuming:

‘Our people like to work. Maybe if we had a well here our hands would be free to attend workshops for sewing or baking.’

One of the women on the committee invites us to her house. She is 47-years-old, a widower with seven children. Her husband was a truck driver who was kidnapped and subsequently killed in the civil war.

She now shares a two-roomed house with three other families - a total of eighteen people living together under one roof.

She farms cotton but as she explains, ‘There’s no benefit from cotton, it provides enough for food but it’s not enough and sometimes we’re hungry.’

Steven takes her outside for photographs as it is too dark inside: 
‘I ask to photograph her in her kitchen and once again find myself surprised to be taken to an outside area with an open frontage and just a fire for cooking on.   

I talk with her as we take the shots and discover that the going rate for cotton picking in this region is just 10 dihram per kilo.   A good day will net 60 kilos of cotton – next to nothing for backbreaking, freezing cold, work.  From the age of 12, local children are let off school between March – November each year so that they can help their families in the cotton fields.’

Catherine:
‘She has two children working in Russia and they send money home to help her survive (about US$150 every 3 – 4 months, she says). She worries about them – the youngest is 21 - and she says she never knows what they’re eating and they never tell her how they are treated.

She, along with every other woman in the village, has to make the 2km journey to collect water. The house uses 160 litres a day and that’s just enough for cooking and washing.   It’s raining the day of our visit, so pots are strategically positioned below the drainpipes to collect rainwater.

It’s a hard and time consuming task collecting that amount of water everyday: ‘Water is life for everyone. If there was a well, we’d all have free time to do other work.’

But things have already started to change thanks to efforts by Ghamkhori and the local committee. Only recently local government officials visited the village to see how people are struggling to get clean water.

As one of the villagers explains ‘There are some problems that we can solve by ourselves but the committee can help us with local government – we can’t do it alone.’

_mg_0125_extractedWork has now begun on cleaning 700 metres of open pipes and they’re also building a well to get underground water. Most of the cost for this comes from international organisations, but the local government is contributing some money from its tiny budget.

And the villagers themselves are contributing to the cost of this well. It’s an investment in their future and something they are more than willing to support.  They need to raise just 130 somoni more to finish their side of the funding for the pipe…

Steven:
We’ve heard that some of the men from the village are trying to earn more money by quarrying in a local limestone area.   Before taking the long drive back, we travel the few kilometres to the site and find a handful of men stabbing enthusiastically at huge rocks with metal poles.   

Scrambling up the quarry side I look down on a large truck made of three open compartments.  These men are working to fill a third of the truck – a task that will take two men more than two days to complete.   

They’ll earn 30 somoni for their trouble...

SharePoint

_mg_0802_extractedAlongside our work in bringing these stories to you and our colleagues back home at Christian Aid, Steven also burned the midnight oil working at our Dushanbe office whenever there was a spare moment…

With over 500 staff and 600+ grassroots partners in some of the poorest countries, we have to take great care in how we communicate and share information around the world. After all, it's no use having a great project in one country if that knowledge cannot be shared elsewhere.

So one of the things I'm responsible for is the introduction of Microsoft SharePoint at Christian Aid - it's a way to collaborate and share information between staff, wherever in the world they happen to be.

You can read the story of why we decided to go with SharePoint here.  But I'm often asked in NGO circles why we chose big bad old Microsoft rather than a 'good' open source route. Taking a moment to stand on my soap box, here's why...

As a charity we have a duty of care to the people who give us donations.  That duty is to maximise our 'profit' - the difference between costs and income - so that we're able to create the biggest impact in countries like Tajikistan.

Using a Microsoft product means that we are buying into a system that requires no bespoke development from us and, more importantly, does not require rare and expensive open source guru's to maintain it.  We can configure the software quickly - the SharePoint go live took four months from a standing start - and avoid the lengthy development cycles of open source. What's more, our staff get to work with a familiar interface… so the training burden is low.

We've got this all working in the UK; so my challenge for this trip would be to see exactly how well SharePoint worked from Dushanbe and if I could squeeze the tests in amongst everything else.

The first opportunity to have a look at things was during Eid.   Sat amongst the squawking PC’s (every time the power dips, which is often, the voltage regulator boxes screech like a bird) I got to play PC engineer – getting rid of viruses and updating windows so that the IT guys in London would trust a VPN connection from one of the machines.  It was a frustrating experience as the updates took over 8 hours to complete.

We never did get to test the VPN as the internet service provider couldn’t change the configuration settings in time (despite us paying an extortionate monthly fee for 512k access), but I did manage to get the staff connected through our eGap system and also prove SharePoint through Citrix.   Each of the methods has its disadvantages and I’d much rather be using the Cisco VPN - so we’ll be testing that remotely very soon.

The important thing was that I was able to train our staff in Dushanbe how to use SharePoint and they’re now able to share files and collaborate on line with colleagues in London.  Not bad for our first international pilot and I have a checklist of changes ready for when we hit the next international office (likely to be Nairobi).

For now, we’re close to having – for the first time ever - all Christian Aid staff able to view and contribute to the same information; be they here in head office, in a church building, out in a developing country, or on an international flight.   

We think that’s pretty amazing.

Postscript:  Our SharePoint deployment is part of something called the Common Knowledge Programme and was reviewed recently in Enterprise Information Magazine.  Email me for a copy of the article.

January 29, 2006

Update...

We've figured out the copyright on the song from this article. You can listen to the Babushka song by clicking this link.  Listen as you look through the stories on this site.  I wonder if it sends the same chill down your spine as it does mine.

Do you remember the good old days... before the ghost town

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Lots of links to photo's and other articles in this entry.  Right click the underlined text and select 'open in new window' as you progress through the story...

We arrive at another house on another sunny but freezing cold day in Balykchy.  There is a large green gate covering the entrance and a little girl who does not want to let us in.  The translator explains who we are and the girl eventually relents. We walk through a small scruffy garden area – complete with frozen water supply - and make our way through the cardboard that acts as the door to the house.

Inside an old lady sits stooped on a tiny stool.  As with Nikolai and Lupina, the room has almost no furniture and clothes are piled up on the bed.  But this time the room is clean and airy.  Light is streaming through the window and there is some sense of ‘home’.  Having spent two weeks crouched on cold floors staring abject poverty in the face perhaps we’re also less shocked by the circumstances we find ourselves in… and more able to concentrate on hearing the stories we’re told.  This turns out to be a fleeting confidence.

Tentieva Suyun is 73 and has lived in Balykchy all of her life.  She stutters through her life story, clearly confused to have three strange faces in her room and a translator asking lots of questions.  She married at 23 and worked as a guard – the area was host to a lot of military testing during Soviet times.

Of her five children, only three survive and only one of those three has anything to do with her – a daughter who lives in the same house, together with her young daughter.  Three generations under one roof, living in just one room.

It’s a familiar story.  Tentieva, her daughter Aichachan (42), and the young girl Aizada (7) barely scrape by.  Tentieva’s pension is little more than US$10 per month and her daughter tries to supplement the household income by selling sunflower seeds at market.   The last time they saw anyone from the social department was almost a year ago.

We talk about what little state provision is available for these people.  There’s a palpable tension in the room when we discuss the situation with the local social department (see the end of blog entry: ‘Spring of Life’).  Aichachan pipes up; “The social department does not do anything.  They just take for themselves.”   

This is proving a hard interview – what else is there to say?  How many more stories like this can we bear to hear?

We talk with little Aizada for a while.   Fortunately, she is able to go to school and tells us how much she enjoys ‘mathmatica’ (maths).  A man enters the room.  He’s the ‘head’ of the block of houses on this road – a man by the name of Marat Namazov.

He explains that people try to help one another but there are limits to what can be achieved.  Of the 200 or so households in his block only 2, maybe 3, households have work.

…That’s 99% unemployment…

It’s time to take photographs and take our leave.   I chat to Marat about our meeting with Yevgeny Semenko just a couple of weeks ago, though it feels like a lifetime has passed. 

Marat acknowledges that the pensions are at least paid on time now; “In the past, we might have to wait for 6 months before a payment was received”.   But the being paid on time has just meant others in the town are less sympathetic to the obvious plight of the elderly and the very young.   Whenever Marat asks for assistance he is told ‘at least you get your pensions’.

As the Kyrgyz government seems set on a downward spiral, the future for these people could look bleak indeed without the lifeline which is Resource Centre for the Elderly.

January 26, 2006

Steven gets accosted

After meeting with Tentieva Suyun, we travel a short distance to a group of houses in the next block.  The houses edge a small dirt square.  There is a communal ‘toilet’,  a hole in the ground with two excrement-covered planks across it and a single sheet of corrugated iron for privacy.   We are to interview two men but the room they are in is too small, so I step outside back into the square leaving Daniel and Catherine to the interview.

I have the camera with me and an old lady spots me.   She wants me to photograph her house too.  At first I decline.  This isn’t poverty tourism.  We only want to take the pictures of people who’ve had a chance to tell us their stories.   She persists.  I enter the small house.

_mg_0205_extractedThere is a single living room.  Small and unfurnished.  No different from the others we’ve seen on this trip.  I look through to her kitchen.   The roof is half missing.  Water has come through.  There is ice everywhere.  The old lady tells me that during winter she will have no water for 2 months or more.  ‘Bubu’ is 78 and she lives with her daughter, 45.

The realisation hits that we're not just seeing the worst-affected of the communities we visit.  Sometimes this is the experience of everyone.

Suddenly the daughter appears in a doorway.  She offers me some bread and I take a small piece.  Her fingers are black with ingrained dirt and she’s wobbly on her feet.  Before I realise it, she’s forcing pieces of bread into my mouth with her fingers.  The translator is outside and I’m on my own with these two women.

I make my way to the door.  The woman has her arms around me and she’s kissing me all over my face.  The translator looks appalled and we establish that she’s drunk on vodka.  She’s trying to explain to me why she drinks.  She doesn’t need to.  If I’d lived any of the lives we’ve witnessed on this trip, I’m not sure I’d stop at drink.

She’s holding my face close to hers.  Crying.  I straighten slightly and she falls backwards off the step.  She’s not hurt thank God but she’s getting very upset.  She takes my notebook from me and crouches on the floor trying to write.

_mg_0208_extractedI take a photograph of her, which I regret.   But this is yet another face of poverty and just as legitimate a story to tell.  We’ve seen how people have been haunted by poverty and we’ve seen how people have regained some self respect.  Now I’m seeing what happens when life feels utterly hopeless and wrong.

_mg_0175_extracted_1We manage to leave.  By Issy-Kul a railway runs along the shoreline – I sit on one of the rails and desperately want to cry.  I’m grateful that Catherine is sat next to me.  Kannat is dealing with the trip in his own way – there’s loud rap music coming from the vehicle.

Spring of Life

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Our accommodation has shrunk at every stage of this journey.  We’re now all sharing a small apartment, despite having the option of spreading over a few different places last night.  Our little group has achieved community… we came out to Central Asia as colleagues.  Now we’re friends and able to support one another through the incredible lows and highs of this trip.

Our first morning in Balykchy and we begin with a meeting of the Self Help Group (SHG) committee – a group which oversees the actions of each of the SHG’s in the town as well as co-ordinating the local emergency response.  It turns out Balykchy is in a seismic zone and there are regular tremors, though the last major quake was in 1975. 

As ever, the people of the group are incredibly warm, generous and kind hearted despite the dire personal circumstances they face.  The leader of the group, an elegant woman in her late sixties called Vera Popova explains that her group sells pies and bread to the local schools and markets.   The money they make goes to paying back micro credit loans and assisting with the funeral costs of the group members. 

They face a lot of competition from younger unemployed people in the town and a local restaurant has recently undercut them, but they continue to work.  “We are not ashamed.  It’s our work, our labour” explains Vera.   To stand out, the group have organised traditional uniforms for themselves and sing songs at market.

With this, they launch into a vigorous rendition of the Russian folksong 'Katya Katusha' – the story of a girl who is waiting for her boy to come back from WW2.  “He will fight to protect us from the enemies and she will protect their love” explains Vera.

This is a rare moment away from poverty and again we wonder how people are able to maintain such spirit.  We managed to record the folksong – CA staff can listen to it here on the Intranet.
Somewhat unbelievably, we have to take care of music copyright issues so can't post this tune on the blog site just yet.   If we can find a way around this then we'll let you know.

After much singing, we return to the challenges these proud but frail people face.  Again, there is nostalgia for the old Soviet system; “even when you just had 20 roubles for your pension, you could survive” says one woman.  “Life at that time was better.”

The group explain life in the town;

“Balykchy is seen as a dead town these days.”

“The town of the very old and the very young.   Those who can work have to go to Bishkek.”

“We cannot afford to live”

“The elderly are neglected – our children have their own problems”

“There are many homeless, they sleep by the utilities pipes to stay warm.”

It’s cold where we are.  We give lifts home to the committee members.  On our own again, we are to meet some of the poorest people in Balykchy town.   

But first we need to visit the ‘City Department for Protection of Social Labour’ so that we can be accompanied on our visits by the head of the department.  We wait in the vehicle while Kannat goes to get him - but two minutes later and he’s back empty handed.

It turns out that the official is drunk and can’t come with us.   A regular occurrence we’re told.  I feel a well of anger building up inside me…

Back to Bishkek and beyond

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After a lovely evening spent with our colleagues from ACT Central Asia, we say a fond farewell, rising next morning to blue sky and sunshine ready for our journey back to Kyrgyzstan. We’ve had such an extraordinary time in Tajikistan - a country of vibrant, generous and courageous people; abandoned factories and unemployment; uncertain futures and low expectations; tensions of dependency and independence.

The thought of using T(r)ajik air again has been hanging a t the back of our minds since our Tupolov experience 10 days ago, and it was with some trepidation that we arrive at the airport. We are relieved to board a small, though elderly jet. We are intrigued to find that all the luggage is being piled up at the back of the plane and there is a somewhat random distribution of seatbelts: Catherine has none, and eyes the emergency door handle as a place to hold onto, although it becomes cased in ice during the journey!

Views of spectacular snowy mountain ranges and lakes soon relax us and we smoothly descend to another perfect landing. Only later are we told by our translator that due to the age of the airlines, the pilots procure their landing skills in order to avoid loss of wings and other essential aircraft parts…

We are met at the airport as if by old friends by members of Resource Centre for the Elderly along with our translators Galina and Galina (!).  We want to avoid travelling through the mountains at night, so head off immediately for Balykchy – a town 3 hours east of Bishkek on the edge of the beautiful and mythical lake Issy-Kul.

It is wonderful to watch the landscape roll by as we wend our way towards the majestic mountains. Falcons perch in wayside trees, herons gently dip for fish in low rivers – this is a breath of fresh air. The sheer vastness and expanse of the plains, the mix of rock formations, searingly bright sunlight, frozen rivers, snowy peaks and blue sky conjures visions of the Wild West, Tibet, Mongolia. 

We pass through small towns with wide tree colonnaded streets populated by decorative houses with chalet-style wooden lofts, and blue painted window frames. It is easy to be beguiled by these scenes and the lightness is starkly contrasted by ominous derelict factories, decrepit irrigation channels and farm machinery that so frequently scar the intervening landscape.   

After a while we begin to climb into the mountains and the previously distant hills now tower barrenly above us – yielding only sparse vegetation to challenge the most intrepid goat. Roads are shored up by anti-avalanche tunnels and a small railway line follows our route. The only other evidence of humanity is the ever present electricity pylons and telegraph wires lacing across the hillsides and occasional settlements with drying washing spread out between bushes like cobwebs.  This is now a mountain road winding past a dramatically frozen river – its glistening rapids fixed in time. It’s clear by the number of wild birds that there must be so much wildlife hidden in this terrain and I gasp at the sight of a snow leopard sitting on a rock only to discover that this is one of the many statues lining the route! All these views are gained through the side windows of our bus – it being too terrifying to view out front at the speed we are going.   The driver clearly has aspirations of racing fame…

We descend down again into plains and at last glimpse the blue ribbon of lake opening up as we wend our way into Balykchi town. This is a totally different place to any we have been. It feels like a remote outpost mountain settlement, with wide roads and desert all around, rising up to snowy peaks. 

We stop briefly in order for Kannat (the volunteer co-ordinator for Resource Centre for the Elderly who is with us for this leg of the journey) to buy smoked fish – a speciality of the town. He is surrounded by around 20 women clutching bundles of Siq and trying to catch his attention.   He eventually emerges with a prized purchase which he later shares with us.

The lake is the focus for the town. It is regarded as sacred and is surrounded by myth.  Only recently have people begun to swim there. The water is salty and, even in piercingly cold temperatures, it never freezes. It is also sited as the second deepest in the world and has revealed evidence of a lost ‘town’ beneath the surface giving it the stature of Atlantis. Later that evening, we wander around the parameter as small children skate and sledge on the frozen ponds around its edge, spying water birds. It is extremely beautiful and is very calming after our exhausting journey.  Given what we are to face over the next few days, it is a welcome respite.

Life has been hard here in Balykchy. In Soviet times the population topped 100,000 - most of whom were employed in large and prosperous factories (one wool pin factory employed half the town).

Since the collapse of the Soviet Union there has been a rapid decline: factories have closed and the population reduced to just over 40,000 as Russians and others have moved away. This has left grandparents caring for grandchildren, parents without sons, wives without husbands.

With this has come the ever familiar reduction of income, employment, health and hope that we have been seeing everywhere. This is the purpose of our visit to Resource Centre for the Elderly here in Balykchy – to visit various projects that are helping the elderly in particular, to regain their livelihoods, a sense of community and hope for the future…

January 25, 2006

Leavening of rights, hopes and dreams

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We visit a Ghamkhori workshop on HIV/AIDS in a village school situated several kilometres from Kurgan Teppe. The classroom is sparse, paint is peeling off the walls and pieces of glass are missing from the windows. There is no electricity or heating.

The class we visit is made up of 16- to 17-year-old girls. I would use the term teenagers in the UK, but the age of the youth here doesn’t seem to correspond to those of the same age back home. All fourteen of the girls are sat with their coats on to keep warm.

They are sat two at a desk and in rows, which brings back memories of my own school days with the exception that the chairs that we had, although not the best, all had backs and the desks were not ready to collapse if too much weight was placed on them.

As we talk to the pupils, two of them seem particularly keen to take part in the conversation: Zamira Tagaeva and Rukhsora Nazarova, both aged 16. 

They tell us that the class has been learning about HIV/AIDS. They are currently studying HIV prevention and finding out which activities could place them further at risk.

Zamira tells us that she finds it worrying that this is a disease that can’t be cured and that they were not even aware of it until Ghamhori held the first workshop with them in 2004.

The class tells us the different things that they have been taught and how during classes they will often split into groups to do their work. Many of the girls are quite insistent that they will make their future husbands have blood tests, especially when they return from working in Russia or other countries.

I am sceptical that this would happen in reality, so we ask the girls whether they believe that a husband would agree to this.  Their response is a unanimous:

“We will make them.”

It is law in Tajikistan that children go to school until they are seventeen, and nearly all of the girls in this class tell us that they would like to complete their studies so that they can get good jobs and then they will marry.

One of the girls has already been told that she will get married when she finishes this school year. I wonder if she is the only one willing to tell us this and how many of the others have been told that they will soon have to be married.

We discuss with the girls what they would like to do when they finish school. Rukhsora says:

“I have a dream to learn English and to become an interpreter and go abroad.”

She says that she has a friend who is living and studying in Dushanbe and that if you have the knowledge it is not difficult or expensive to go to university.

Zamira tells us that she would like to be a journalist:

“I like this job…I don’t know a journalist personally but from watching television and listening to radio, I am interested.”

She also tells us how she likes to read the newspaper and that from the paper she has learnt how the number of people with HIV/AIDS is increasing. The girls invite us to their houses but we are unable to visit them as we are expected elsewhere. However, we ask if we could visit them the following day.

The next day we arrive at Zamira’s house and are greeted by her and her mother, Suvara. They lead us into a largish room where, with typical Tajik hospitality, they have laid out nuts, sweets and other foods for us to eat.

We have just had lunch and we’re embarrassed that we can’t eat the food we’ve been given. We’re relieved that Zamira and her mother accept our apologies and don’t take offence.

Zamira comes into the room carrying four loaves of traditional Tajik flat bread.  We had wanted to see how this bread is baked but Zamira tells us that she had to bake the loaves this morning as she was uncertain when we would arrive and they take some time to make.

Suvara and Zamira explain how they make the bread together by mixing the ingredients into a large metallic bowl. They then knead the mixture and leave it to rise for two hours.

Once the bread has risen it is separated into individual loaves and then baked on the inside wall of their bread oven. The oven is in what could be best described as an outhouse in the backyard and it seems that this is where most Tajiks have their bread ovens and kitchens.

Both Zamira and Suvara are full of smiles and seem to be incredibly close to one another. These two seem to be another example of how warm and loving the Tajik people are. I wonder whether strangers would be afforded such openness and hospitality back home.

We ask Suvara whether Zamira will be allowed to further her education in order to become a journalist. I am surprised by the response, especially considering how close these two seem to be.

“Her granny will not let her continue her education,” says Suvara.

We pursue this further and ask what she thinks Zamira should do as she is her mother, but find out that the decision is with her mother-in-law and the village elders.

In this village girls are not allowed to carry on with their education. It’s seen as unnecessary and many of the families would be unable to cope with the financial burden of supporting and paying for a child to go to university.

Suvara informs us that it is for these reasons, both financial and because of the village elders, that Zamira will not continue her education.

Zamira’s resolve for continuing her education, that yesterday seemed so unquestionable, is much reduced. She says:

“Sometimes I feel like continuing my studies, but then sometimes I come back and my granny starts to say something, so I don’t want to study then.”

Suvara adds, “Some girls study at university and then get married and the husband stops them working. So why go and get educated?”

We have had a very pleasant time with Zamira and Suvara and thank them for inviting us to their house. I am saddened as we leave because in this one household we have seen how difficult it is for girls like Zamira to challenge the divisions that seem to exist in Tajik society.

If it continues to be the role of the village elders and grandmothers to decide whether or not children can continue their education, then it may be another two generations or more before girls like Zamira can actually fulfil their dreams of studying for good careers.

It also seems so unfair that those who appear to be bright enough carry on their studies are denied this choice because they have been born on the wrong side of the gender divide.

January 24, 2006

Fortune tellers, mother-in-laws and microcredit

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One of our last visits in Kurgan Teppe is to the village of Qahramon. It seems a sleepy village and, as with all other towns and villages we visit, the evidence of poverty and abandonment is everywhere. It just never seems to end. Wherever we go.

The first visit of the morning has been intensely emotional with more than a few tears shed, both by the young girls we meet as well by ourselves. In many other countries, life for girls in their late teens would be only just beginning. For these girls, it seems that life is already closing in. As they describe their resignation to the fate being imposed upon them, they talk with a sad wisdom that would normally be reserved for elderly women, or so I assume.

It is with some surprise, then, that in the next group we visit, we find a dozen or so elderly women who, in the words of one, say that they are now ‘old ladies, but we are like small children who have just learned something new.’ The contrast is astounding.

_mg_1282_extractedAs we enter a dark room with the usual unlit stove, a powerful, large-busted woman grabs each of us one by one and plants great smacking kisses on our cheeks.

‘How is your husband? How are your children? How is your mother, your father, your grandmother?’ she greets us, laughing uproariously. The atmosphere in this room is so warm and inviting, despite the cold.

Two women’s self-help groups have gathered to talk to us. With the help of Mehrengez, they have been taking courses in health and hygiene, disease prevention, collecting funds, saving and finance management, contraception for their daughters and daughters-in-law, and even lessons in how to get along with mother-in-laws (a notoriously problematic issue for young wives in Tajikistan where domestic violence isn’t just an issue between husband and wife.) But the mood is jovial. Perhaps they could teach us a few things about getting on with our own mother-in-laws we laugh!

The large-busted woman tells us how much life has changed. They had all worked on the local collective farm during the Soviet period and all their needs were provided for. But when the Soviet collapse came, followed by war, they had found it so difficult to find their way.

“Life was so difficult. If we found a cabbage, that’s all we had for our soup and we had to eat bread made out of corn. Then came Mehrengez and taught us how to find a new way.”

One woman describes a time following the war when they had no food for 47 days. “My son was 17 and he nearly died. It was like this until Mehrengez came along.”

They now get together once a week, discuss their problems and make decisions on how to help each other solve issues. “Look at us, our mood has changed!”

They all laugh and giggle furiously, explaining that traditionally Tajik people are more likely to trust a fortune teller than their neighbours, or even friends. Then, the laughter turns to raucous hysterics as they proceed to enact the role play activities they do during their social training sessions with Mehrengez. Two of them exit and then re-enter: one dressed as a fortune teller and the other as a housewife. The 'fortune teller’ pretends, with extreme theatrical aplomb I might add, to be able to solve all the housewife’s problems, foretelling a bright future. Of course, by the time she has muttered a few charms and passed a walking stick three times round the housewife’s head, she has procured from the gullible woman all her warm clothes, jewellery and any spare cash. The role play, they explain, is to highlight that through helping each other they can all gain without being cheated out of their precious few possessions, unlike if they were to place their trust in a fortuneteller.

Through Mehrengez, they have also received microcredit which they have used to grow potatoes and tomatoes, and to buy cattle. They fatten the cattle during the summer and then sell them for profit. They can also borrow funds from the group pot if they need to buy medicines for a daughter, son or grandchild. However, they add bitterly, in the current climate in Tajikistan, even the doctors are corrupt (owing to such poor pay) and will often only treat people when dollars are put on the table.

In the past, the Soviet state took on all the responsibilities of health prevention and social welfare. Now, these elder women of the village are learning to take on these responsibilities themselves because the new state is unable, and perhaps unwilling, to do so.

Through Mehrengez, we have learned a lot. We have learned that we have rights and we can use these rights. We have learned about disease and we have learned to go to the doctors early, to prevent disease. And we have learned how to make a profit.”

“Before we set up the self-help group, we were just neighbours. We didn’t gather as a group. But now life is so different. We get together, we talk, we listen to each other as counselors. Now we can laugh and smile and help each other because Mehrengez has helped us.”

Choosing the future ?

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We call at a house in a local village to visit members of a young women’s sewing class supported by our partner, Mehrengez.  The snow has turned to rain but it’s still bitter as we retreat from the cold to huddle into a small dark room at the back of a house where eight or nine girls have gathered to speak with us.

The group was set up around 18 months ago for young women with few or no skills to help them develop their education and improve their livelihoods. Over the first 6 months, Mehrengez invited school tutors to train the girls in pattern cutting, sewing, costume making, Russian language, reading and writing. They also learnt about infectious diseases and conflict resolution within the family.

Over the following year, the girls developed their practical skills and they now work six days a week making cushions and clothes to sell at market including the traditional Tajik ‘halat’ coats.

Even though the room we are all in is dark, we can see jewel-coloured garments, patterns and embroidery designs – all in various stages of completion – hanging up on the walls. Mehrengez has helped them buy eight second-hand sewing machines and many brightly coloured spools of thread. Through their work, the girls are now able to top-up their household income by around 30 soms per month.

The girls, aged between 14 and 20, seem very close as a group. But as we begin the interview most look reluctant and frightened to speak. This is not surprising, we are in one of the most conservative villages in the country, where young women must cover their faces outside the house, and stay at home rather than study or work.

As the girls begin to trust us, most speak with great candour and maturity, revealing how many of them have already been through much in their young lives.

As we move around the room, each girl summaries her family experience. Virtually all were affected by the civil war with one or more male members of the family either killed or later migrating in search of work.

Memories and sadness seem to lie right behind their eyes, as one member says in tears: ‘Never can we forget this…. my father went to the war and didn’t come back.’ 

Although the war is now over, times are still hard.  Manzura, another member of the group, explains:

‘Our life is very difficult. Most of our fathers are in Russia. It’s very difficult for our families. That’s why we came here to work, to study. We buy a few things for ourselves but most goes to our families.’

As we ask more about their activities, the girls become very talkative and friendly like any teenagers in the UK. It’s clear how much they are enjoying this aspect of their lives. They make a very real contribution to the family income and have developed knowledge, friendships and freedom within the group. ‘It’s good for our lives and most of all we can be free to express our thoughts. We have a profession now for all our life.’

It should be noted that the girls initially struggled to attend the group because their community was highly suspicious of the initiative, fearing the girls would be corrupted. The success of the group is an achievement not only for Mehrengez, but for the girls and their families too.

Some also speak of friends whose parents will still not allow them to attend. The teacher from Mehrengez shares her enthusiasm too, telling us how she has seen the girls grow and develop their horizons. She explains that at first the girls didn’t want to speak to her or uncover their faces, but things have now changed: ‘I feel it’s my big achievement and real progress in my work….they believe us, they trust us.’

This is bitter-sweet. Though the girls appear joyful and confident, when we ask them about the future, their hopes have only limited horizons. In a conservative society and particularly in this region, there is an inevitability about the future. Manzura’s ambition was always to be a doctor. She says that she is illiterate due to the civil war and will never have enough knowledge to fulfil her dream. She is plainly very bright and though only 20 years young, sees the door already closed to her ambitions:

‘We want to be independent like women and girls in other countries. But as we grow, they quickly match us with men and all our life we spend in the garden and grow quickly old. This is our life, and we don’t want it.’

It seems that this generation of young women are on the cusp of something new and different. Though they are aware that they will probably never achieve the independence of their dreams, things are better than before with new skills, education and friendship. As Manzura says:

‘My dream is this: I don’t want to live like my father and mother. I want to live in a different way. I don’t want to come back to the horrible days I have seen in my life.’

We were sad to leave, and as we did so, many of the girls seemed very emotional, and Manzura was in tears. I think our visit had opened up some very sensitive issues for them.

January 22, 2006

Dear Tajikistan, We are your children, We are ready to serve you.

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Daniel and I (Steven) get to visit a boys literacy class in one of the many poor villages we visit around Kurgan Teppa.  To be honest, the two of us have seen enough sewing workshops to last a lifetime, so it’s good to meet a different kind of group.  Frances, Catherine and Amanda clearly haven’t seen too much brightly coloured thread… as that’s exactly where they are during our visit!  Despite our support for partner’s work on gender, the group clearly has its own issues!

As ever it’s a very cold day in Tajikistan, but this time it’s raining too, so the skies are dark and the streets even muddier than usual.  We enter the classroom just off the street – it’s a small room with no heat or light and crowded with a class of fifteen young men.  Their school desks are planks of wood and they sit on coloured floor mats. 

The photograph above was taken on a long exposure, so the room looks much lighter than it actually was – I struggled to see the boys sitting opposite me and it took several attempts to focus the camera.   

How these lads manage to see their books, let alone read them, I don’t know.

Illiteracy amongst the young is a huge issue in Tajikistan.  For the first time this is a generation which is less well educated and less prosperous than the generation that went before.  Of course, the civil war meant that many of these boys missed their schooling as they were evacuated to Uzbekistan and Afghanistan.  But as we’ve seen in many other articles posted here on the blog, children are also forced to miss school as they need to work for the family.

The group we’re visiting are aged between 14 – 18 years and none of them could read or write before beginning the course, run by our partners Mehrengez.  Their teacher, Mahmadov Suhrob (34), explains the boys are two months into a six month course and are already beginning to see benefits.

We talk with the group.  They’re interested to know what boys of their age in the UK are like.   They explain why they want to do the course; ‘I want to work and help earn money for my family’ says one, ‘I don’t want to go somewhere and be embarrassed’ says another.

I explain to the boys why I think the literacy programme is important for them to complete; being able to read and write will help them read weighing scales and calculate their salaries.   Vitally important if you’re being paid a handful of somoni for picking kilo after kilo of cotton.  The Mehrengez teacher nods away enthusiastically.

We make to leave.  This is an important class for the boys and we must not delay them further.  But just before we go, one boy stands up and reads us a poem he likes.   Short and to the point, it translates as;

“Dear Tajikistan, we are your children, and we are ready to serve you.”

Hmmm. If only the state served them.

January 21, 2006

More on getting involved

Lisa Jones left a comment for us asking if she could send clothes and money directly to the families and groups we have visited.   This earlier blog link best explains how Christian Aid concentrates on long term development and humanitarian relief, working with local partner agencies.

If any blog reader would like to give clothes for use in Tajikistan and elsewhere then there are other charities that can help.  We saw Samaritan's Purse boxes at Nekki and the gifts had clearly got through, though bear in mind many people have reservations about Operation Christmas Child.

Cold, still, and empty

_mg_0174_extractedIn this personal article, Daniel shares his observations of our recent visits to four Internat schools in Tajikistan…

The group thought long and hard before agreeing to post articles about the Internat schools.   The fire last week had made the state nervous about foreign journalists and we did not want to make a hard job even harder for the staff of these schools.  As you can see, we’ve opted to publish our experiences.

We were affected in different and profound ways – we are all mothers, fathers, aunts and uncles.  Some of us have experience of disability in the family; others know what it is like for a single parent to bring up children.   Each of us have connections which allow us to connect personally to the children we have met in these schools.

Visiting other Internats, we’re still feeling weary not knowing whether to expect more propaganda on how much the government is doing for orphans and disabled children.  Of course there are some directors who seem to fulfil the rumours we have heard.  Surprisingly the opposite seems to be the case amongst the deputy directors and other staff we meet. 

Every school visit has a haunting coldness to it.   The lack of electricity in the hallways and classrooms seems to emphasise this further.  One of the schools has wide well ramped corridors that remind me of wooden American rollercoasters.   But there is a stark difference from the fast movement of the carts and the joy and fun children have on rollercaoaster rides,

These hallways are the opposite.  Cold, still, and empty.  Despite how hard the staff work in these schools, I find it difficult to believ that segregating children from their peers due to physical, social, or mental disability, is an appropriate response to their care and future welfare.

The children are the future of this country.  Everywhere we look we see the elder generation clinging on by their fingertips to some sense of dignity and hope.   Exclusion of the next generation now is not healthy for them or the state.

January 20, 2006

The inside truth...

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Back in Dushanbe we visit a firm of lawyers, but this is no ordinary firm. Rights and Prosperity campaign and lobby on the difficult issue of children’s rights in state orphanages and special education schools. They were set up in 1998 to look into the legal rights of orphans. Back then orphaned children would often not have legal documentation and the cost of replacing these papers were too expensive – US$3. The work of Rights and Prosperity reduced the cost to US$1 and ensured that when it was not possible to afford even this amount, the children at least had access to the correct paperwork.

We discuss many such issues during the morning with these wonderful people, including the objectionable practice of arresting street children – in the past they could be jailed for up to 8 years for stealing a chicken. Still, problems remain. Today, young girls are imprisoned with adult women – in direct violation of international human rights.

The number of orphans and ‘social orphans’ is substantial – estimated at 1 in 5 children affected socially and up to 50,000 orphans. But there are no state statistics. Which means of course the government fails to give adequate provision to this problem.

It is felt that the problems of orphan and disabled children are largely as a result of civil war, and the very high birth rate in Tajikistan. But there are social issues too – parents abandoning able and disabled children to the state because of grinding poverty. In extreme cases, children are even placed in prisons by their parents… simply to ensure a hot meal for them. Poverty and state indifference side by side.

The government fails these children to the extent that no one department or minister is responsible for the ‘internats’ - the state schools for disabled and orphan children. Consequently, the quality of the individual schools fluctuates wildly along with local political whims. As with the other stories in this blog, a new budget for 2006 has been set for the Internats…but it is not clear what this is yet… or how it will be used.

We’re keen to go and see the Internats for ourselves. Rights and Prosperity explain that some of the directors might be taking the budget money for themselves and might not appreciate our visit. Moreover, there seems to be some nervousness from state officials around our visits.

Of course there was (rare) international attention for Tajikistan following the orphanage fire last week in which thirteen children were killed. So this nervousness around foreign visitors is perhaps understandable.

There are 14 ‘official’ Internats (others exist) in Tajikistan. We are to visit four of them and the first is on the outskirts of Dushanbe. It’s a school for children ‘who are hard of hearing or who have become deaf during their childhood’. Rights and Prosperity explain that the schoolteachers are often from the Internats themselves and not professionally qualified; resulting in massive skills shortages and instances of class overcrowding.

It’s another freezing cold day in Dushanbe when we arrive at the school. The pathways and steps are covered in sheet ice. We’re greeted by the deputy director (we’re not going to use the people’s names in this public blog entry). A nervous looking man, he leads us into an office strewn with crosswords and music playing on his computer – a computer which turns out to be the only one the school has. He answers our questions indifferently at first, doodling on a notepad but livens up when I ask him about why he works there.

He explains that of the 123 children at the school, only a few are in attendance today as there has been a holiday. The children’s ages range from 6 – 18 years and they are given a ‘general middle education’.

“There are a number of challenges for a school like ours,” he explains. “There is no special equipment for hearing. So it is difficult to conduct our school programme. All of our materials are in Russian but the state now requires us to teach in Tajik and anyway, all of our materials are old”.

We later find out that the school was first established under the Soviet regime in 1979 and nothing has been replaced since.

The deputy director tells us that there are 22 teachers at the school which means class sizes are good. Unfortunately, we see no evidence of this, so it’s hard to say whether we’re being given the truth. He also explains that the children receive four hot meals per day – a fact hotly disputed later by the Rights and Prosperity staff.

We have a sense that this is a man who genuinely wants to do this work but is prevented from explaining the true situation. He’d like to have leisure programmes for the children and life skills workshops. Currently they’re not able to offer these.

We ask to be shown round the school. It’s like a ghost town. Lots of classrooms are locked and we cannot see inside. We’re shown an empty – and freezing cold – girls’ dormitory, but the director doesn’t want us to take photographs.

Finally, we’re introduced to a small class of children and suddenly the place is alive for us. The children are speaking in sign language and they are very excited to see us.

We ask who is the youngest and eldest of the children and are introduced to ‘Bibi cha’, age 6, and Rahshona, age 14, together with their teacher – a stunningly attractive woman in a floor length black leather coat. Poverty does not discriminate. It affects the young, old, and the beautiful.

The children are happy – this isn’t a horror story of orphans chained to beds – but it is heartbreaking to see the conditions they are tolerating and hear of their home lives.

Eventually we get to talk with just the two girls and their teacher in a small dormitory, selected for us by the assistant director. Even the one that has been especially picked for us is extremely cold and the beds have rusty springs which gave up trying to support anything years ago.

Frances asks the girls lots of questions as Steven photographs them (you can see more of their answers in the image captions), but the assistant director is ever-present and appears to be coaxing the girls at times. When she asks Bibi and Rahshona if they get cold at night, their response is ‘yes, but it will soon be spring’.

Both girls are boarding at the school and only get to go home once a fortnight – despite their family homes being in the same city. Bibi explains to Steven that her father has gone to work in Russia and he cringes as he mistakenly asks what her daddy says to her when he calls on the telephone. But this 6 year old child is not downtrodden or self pitying – she simply explains that she cannot hear her daddy when he calls.

Silently, the group has been joined by the Director of the Internat. There’s tenseness in the room which Steven tries to allay by showing staff the photographs we’re taking. The director suddenly asks us to meet with her in her office, and we’re really not sure what we will face.

We enter a large, mostly empty, room. It’s no warmer than anywhere else in the school and the bookshelves are all empty. We labour the reason why we’re here; that we’re not trying to expose anything other than the scandal of poverty for Tajikistan’s people.

We needn’t have worried. It turns out that the Director is newly in post, having turned around the worst-performing state kindergarten, and she wants to tell us what she’s facing here.

“When I first came here, I saw the condition the children were living in and I was amazed. To work with healthy children is easier. Disabled children need your kindness, your attitude, every minute.”

She launches into the list of changes she has instigated. When she first visited the kitchens, there were no plates or cups. What remained was broken so she replaced everything and put tablecloths on the dining room tables.

The school could only afford to give the children bread for their meals. The director explains ‘we are now able to give the children meat twice a week. I’d like to do this every day, but we do not have the budget.’ She’s also managed to get some heating into a few classrooms.

These changes did not come courtesy of the state. She paid for them with US$2,000 of her own money. “Fortunately, my husband has a job which allows me to help.”

This woman has probably given more than her annual salary to try and make a difference to the school. But that can’t be sustainable and Steven says just that to the director. She nods sadly and explains their budget situation. They’ve applied for a 2006 budget of 200,000 somoni which includes all building expenses, salaries, taxes, and food. This is about US$60,000 to run the entire school for the year and they have not had the budget approved yet.

Of this budget, just 30,000 somoni (US$9,316) is allocated for food. Steven does the maths with the Director – it works out to just under 4.7 somoni (US$1.50) per child per week. ‘Now divide that by 7 says the director’. This hits Steven hard and he’s struggling to maintain composure.

We don’t think there are bad people here – this is yet another story of the obscene nature of poverty. The facts are these. This Internat has 21 cents per day to feed a child not just one meal, but three. There is next to no heating. They have no equipment. There is a teacher shortage and there are no specialist teaching skills coming through in the post Soviet generation.

The Director sums it up; “Nobody pays any attention to disabled children. During Soviet times we had more than US$6 per child. Now there is nothing.”

January 19, 2006

Left out in the cold…

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When the Soviet Union collapsed, Tajikistan literally had the carpet pulled from beneath its feet. Abandoned overnight, the subsequent civil war left this fledgling country desperate, scarred and decaying. On this trip, everywhere we turn, we see the scars and decay across the landscape: sprawling Soviet factories - abandoned and rotting; crumbling glassless houses; dilapidated apartment blocks; old skeletal offices; rusting schools and clinics; broken pipes; decomposing wiring; disintegrating roads; broken down vehicles... its intensity seems endless.

However, harder to take in than all of this are the shattered spirits which can find no escape from the winter’s cold even in their own homes. In these people’s eyes, the same question is always begging: how on earth has life, which had once been so safe and good, reached such terrible depths?

I find it so difficult to adequately describe what this country and its people have experienced, but when we visited a women’s discussion group in Ghamkhori’s Women’s Centre in Kurgan Teppe, I met a woman who I immediately felt personified the loss, humiliation and grief that this country and its people continue to experience 15 years on from forced independence. Through Savri’s story, I am hoping that those who read this will be able to understand the abandonment that the people of Tajikistan feel.

Savri is 46. She is married with six children: 5 daughters and a son, the youngest 10, the oldest 25 who is heavily pregnant. When Tajikistan became a country in its own right, Savri was able to buy her state apartment from the new government. Unused to the legal intricacies of private ownership, Savri had not secured the appropriate ownership documents from the city government for her flat. Then came the civil war, followed by a new government.

She had long since lost her job in the old state factory, but at least her family still had a roof over their heads. Then one night, out of the blue, the police arrived at her apartment to evict them. The reason they gave was that Savri did not have legal entitlement to the flat as the documents did not have her name on them and the flat was needed for a teacher. The police dealt with their protests violently and threw her family and a few of their possessions out into the cold night air. There was little they could do faced with such brutal intimidations.

“The eviction was so sudden,” she wept, as she recounted that night. “We had no time to even pack our clothes. They burned our passports and took my children’s things. So many things got lost. It was snowing at the time and my children weren’t even allowed to get their clothes.”

As the tears streamed across Savri’s cheeks, other women in the room clamoured to shout about the injustice of her situation. But Savri wanted to speak for herself.

“I worked for 13 years in a state factory and then the government came and took my house… after 13 years…”

She told us that, homeless, they had moved from room to room until finally they found a more permanent ‘temporary’ refuge in the waiting room of a dental clinic where they have been for the last three years. Did we want to come and see it, she invited?  Definitely.

In the twilight, we drove through Kurgan Teppe’s streets, past blue, green and grey ex-Soviet apartment blocks, all in a progressive state of disrepair. Turning down a muddy track (which was probably once a tarmac road), we entered a courtyard between two or three of these blocks. Stepping between mud and puddles, Savri led us through a cold unwelcoming door at the side of one of the blocks. The hollow glass bricks above the door were all broken, letting the seering cold into the building. Here was where the dental clinic was situated - on the ground floor of a damp grimy and decaying building. Savri opened the first door, a big metal thing on creaking hinges. Inside was a single, high-ceilinged room with bright patterned seating mats stacked up in one corner. It was the only colour in the unheated room.

“Six of us live here at night,” she said poignantly. “During the day we have to wander the streets while the clinic is open.”

The walls were stained with rising damp and we could see that the back wall, which separated them from the cold evening air, was made of thin plywood. In temperatures that frequently plummet below zero in the winter, this was a terrible place to have to call home.

A deep and troubled sigh fell from Savri’s lips. “Thanks to God, my youngest daughter is ten years old, otherwise she would have died in this cold.”

Savri has no idea what the future holds. Her children aren’t at school because ever since the night of the eviction they have become so afraid of any form of authority. Her oldest daughter is also about to give birth.

Her only hope and respite is the Ghamkhori Women’s Centre where she has been coming for three years.

“I was going to commit suicide, but then I came to the Centre and after talking to them, they helped me change my mind.”

The Centre’s lawyer is also providing his services for free to help her write letters to the city government to try to get her flat back. If she was to go privately, she says, it would cost her more than she can afford. As it is, she earns next to nothing selling pies on the street during the day which she makes in the small dental clinic’s stove.

Unfortunately, getting her flat back will be complicated. The teacher, she has discovered, already owns another house and is subletting Savri’s apartment out.

“The Centre has helped me so much. If I don’t come to the Centre I have nowhere to go. It’s a place where we can get help, where we can talk freely. The Centre is like a proof that there is hope. When we come here and talk about our problems, it helps us sleep better at night.”

Like Savri’s family, Tajikistan has had everything ripped from beneath it… jobs, security, housing, heating, schools, water…

Postscript…
Sadly, given the degree of deteriorating poverty that we are witnessing on a daily basis here, I can’t help but feel that support for the plight of these people and this country is far from enough, although the grassroots work that local NGOs undertake is quite phenomenal. Is this because the amount of support a struggling country receives depends on its geo-political importance or natural resource wealth? Is it because support for poverty-stricken communities depends upon the amount of media exposure a region or country receives in developed countries? Or is it because we are failing to challenge our own perceptions and images of poverty in the 21st century?