Like many developing world cities, Nairobi's a place of stark contrasts.
It's absolutely bucketing it down outside (raining lions and tigers, as they say here, which is like cats and dogs except bigger and without the dogs). I've come to an internet cafe in the Sarit centre, the city's largest shopping mall. It's much like any shopping mall anywhere in the world. Except that it's not anywhere in the world, it's in the heart of sub-Saharan Africa where two-thirds of people live below the poverty line.
Inequality is at the heart of the climate change debate because, put crudely, poor people do not emit much carbon dioxide and yet are vulnerable to drought and flood while wealthy people are the big emitters and yet are more insulated against climate change. Each and every one of us is going to have to think about this because if we're to stand a high chance of combatting global warming effectively - which means pegging global average temperature increases to below two degrees Celsius - then we're also going to have to confront inequality.
The UN climate change summit finished around 9.30 last night with what delegations from the 189 countries attending will take back to their people calling an 'agreement'. And there was agreement of sorts. A fund to help those most at risk adapt will be launched next year and is likely to be majority controlled by poorer countries themselves, which is a victory. The Kyoto Protocol will be reviewed in two years time, although the wording of the final text appears to rule out countries making further commitments to reduce their emissions. Most importantly, there were no major setbacks - the status quo in the global effort to tackle climate change was maintained.
And yet, compare this timid response with the task at hand. A new report from the think tank IPPR (see the link to the left), which is based on some of the latest science, says very clearly that to stand any reasonable chance of remaining below plus two degrees, global emissions must peak within the next seven years and then decline by around four per cent each year thereafter. Kyoto, though important in that it's all we have, sets a one-off reduction target of five per cent by 2012 and the biggest emitter, the US, is not even involved. Nairobi's 'agreement' has, for two years at least, dismissed any chance of accelerating and deepening these cuts.
Frankly - and I don't say this to be dispiriting, merely as a statement of high probability - if we don't match the global effort with the emerging scientific reality, we can kiss goodbye to the internationally agreed target of halving poverty by 2015 and many other human aspirations. We're in urgent need of some leadership, which to me underlines the importance of the burgeoning campaign on climate change, not just in the UK but elsewhere.
What's been most impressive these past two weeks is the extent to which Kenyan people have taken up the issue of climate change. From church leaders to taxi drivers, everyone seems to be engaging - even the notoriously parochial media has been producing powerful double page spreads and radio and TV programmes focussing on the UN talks. If these ultimately yielded little of substance, they seem to have spawned a new awareness of the issue here and also to have revealed to the world what impact climate change is already having on Africa.
That brings me back to the rain. This morning, Philip, the manager of the guest house in which I'm staying, was bemoaning the weather. But in the next breath said, 'at least we will eat this year.' And therein lies the reality. We're all forever waiting on the climate's next move and, whether our natural habitat is the shopping mall or the savannah, rather more at its whim than we care to consider.
The timidity of our leaders and their lack of urgency in dealing with a rapidly heating planet leaves us all in limbo.
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