Beauty, education and hospitality in Kulyab

Group one's second two night excursion from Dushanbe started bright and early on Monday morning. Somewhat bleary eyed, we left the hotel at about 6.25am (a bit of a random time - we were aiming for 6am but with eight 18-25 year olds trying to get up we no longer expect punctual departures...). This time were headed down to Kulyab - slightly alarmingly close to the Afghan border (a couple of hours) - though we'd be assured it would be safe...

Any efforts to catch up on sleep in the minibus were utterly frustrated (slightly rickety minibus + lots of people + lots of bags + very bumpy, ill-maintained roads = no sleep), however, this was just as well because the scenery was absolutely stunning. We journeyed up and up into the mountains, surrounded on all sides by dusty looking peaks, with glimpses of snow on the distant skyline. As we rounded a bend we were confronted with the beauty of lake Norak. The surface shimmered under the early morning sun, shockingly turquoise - reminiscent of the Mediterranean rather than Central Asia. Faced by such a large expanse of water I was reminded of Tajikistan's landlocked state - suddenly it occurred to me that most Tajiks must never see the sea... As I write this, I  remember a university student of Tajikistan University who in interview expressed his greatest dream is to witness the ocean. Quite a feat when even to travel to Dushanbe from this region is too expensive for many. And I thought Oxford was far from the coast...

Another impressive sight of our journey was the region's massive salt mountains, which we were informed could supply the world with salt for 100 years. This certainly is a country with an abundance of natural resources. However paradoxically, the salt from these mountains lacks iodine - a major problem when deficiency of this important element is causing high incidence of the disease goitre in the region. Therefore, local NGO's encourage people to buy packeted salt, rather than the cheaper mountain salt. A parallel seems to lie in the fact that Tajikistan is rich in water and the possibilities for hydro-electric power stations are numerous - however in so many of the rural villages that we visited, electricity is rationed to just a few hours in winter. The country's potential is enormous, but it needs to be effectively harnessed.

The true highlight of the day was the people we met and the warmth with which we were received. Ruhafzo, the partner we were visiting, works in four rural villages in the Kulyab region providing educational support and training for young people, as well as organising parents' committees which liaise with local schools. As we arrived at one of the villages in which Ruhafzo is working, we were treated to a traditional Kulyab greeting. We were met by girls who presented us with a tower of bread - on top of which was a small pot of salt (from the mountain). One by one we were invited to break off a piece of bread, dip in in the salt and eat it. We were also treated to flowers and dancing. This hospitality continued throughout the day. When our morning plans overran and we no longer had time to go the office for lunch, a local family invited us into their home. There we had one of the best meals of the trip - treated to not one, but two traditional dishes! We were overwhelmed by the generosity, especially with such little notice. Over dinner conversation turned to Tajik hospitality. The director of Ruhafzo (a man whose face seemed almost entirely comprised of smile lines) explained how the prophet Muhammed (PBUH) taught that Muslims are obliged to welcome visitors. We have certainly reaped the benefits of this during our trips - and have felt humbled by the experience.

Comments

[Bianca]

I can't believe it's all nearly over! I've so enjoyed checking in and reading your blog every day. It was great to have the occasional picture to bring it all more alive - i look forward to seeing the rest of the pics when you get back. Lucy + Nicola - we'll be expecting an update (including plenty of food!) in a team meeting! Have a really safe journey back. Bxx

[Amanda]

Hi all
I shall really miss reading your blogs every day reminding me of the extraordinary hospitality of the Tajik people that we too experienced last January. It has always made me embarrassed about how inhospitable we are, certainly in the UK, by comparison when you think of how tough life is for the people of Tajikistan and how hard it often is for them to afford more than bread and soup. It also reminds me just how important it is that we continue to challenge stereotypes and misconceptions about poverty, cultures and indeed faiths.
You are all doing a wonderful job (and I just heard your presentation was 'amazing'!) Take care and see you soon.
Amanda